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Tranquillity is just a trek away

You can experience the charm of the grasslands, says SUBHA J RAO

A MAJESTIC PRESENCE The Beermukku temple Photo: K. Ananthan

In theory, Ebbanad is just an hour and a half away (16 kilometres) from Ooty. Reality is far different. The winding, potholed hill roads coupled with great view ensure we reach it in little under three hours.

The drive through misty tea estates, and lush fields heavy with carrot, radish, beans and exotic vegetables like plump zucchini is something every city dweller will love.

Some farmers sell their produce on the roadside — cause for more delay. It is very difficult to peel your eyes away from the sacks bursting with freshly picked vegetables.

Early start

It is best to leave Ooty at dawn so that you can reach Ebbanad before the Sun reaches its zenith. Ebbanad is a small village with two schools, a couple of teashops and acres of vegetable plantations.

From here, there is a two-hour walk to Beermukku temple — no one seems to know why it is so called. Someone suggests it is probably a corrupted version of Bearmukku (a place frequented by bears?).

Accompanying us to the hill-top shrine are the local `cashier' and two Badaga elders. Despite our protests, they pack some sugar-rich bananas and tangy masala biscuits. Later, we realise why.

Divine view

The temple lords over the area, situated, as it is 1,000 steps above the foothills. From a distance it looks like a rounded mound with a cord of white wrapped around it (whitewashed steps which run through the temple). The local temple committee has put the rough-hewn steps in place, most of which have been sponsored by individuals whose names are painted on each step.

Despite the steps the climb is difficult for untrained legs. But there is a bonus. As you painfully make your way up and take frequent breaks to recoup, the verdant landscape acts as a balm to your tired feet.

At first, you can only see the peaks of the hills nearby, then a line of tall shola forests looms into view. A hundred steps later you can spot the secondary layer of forests, followed by the undulating plantations of Ebbanad.

Near the steps, the twiggy velankucchi maram and lantana camara grow aplenty providing some semblance of shade.

Pleasantly tired

A protest from you saying you can't take another step, and `cashier' dangles a treat — a yellow green banana that seems like manna. Refreshed by the surge of calories from the snack, I run up the last few steps before collapsing in a heap.

The view from here is worth all the trouble. If the tantalising glimpses of Ebbanad you saw till now enchanted you, then the view here is something that will take your breath away.

Here's what you get: Vast acres of grassland, mist rising towards the nearby peaks, birdcall and the lonely strains of an Irula cowherd singing as he grazes his herd in the grassland behind the hill. Elephants and bison are known to frequent this grassland.

Take a pair of binoculars and the estates of Kodanad, the Siruyur Mariamman temple on the Karnataka border, Masinagudi and the Irula settlement of Aaanikatti seem within touching distance.

The temple priest comes in once a month or whenever a villager wants to make an offering to the deity, Shiva. The `cashier' and his friends tell us that devotees carried every single brick and stone and drop of water that went into the making of the temple.

A labour of love

The climb down is more difficult. Gravity forces you down faster than you want to go and it feels like someone is pushing you from behind. Once, on the grassland, it is time to rejoice.

It is evening by now and the monkeys are out in full strength in the jungle, screeching for all they are worth. The walk from the foothills to the village takes about 45 minutes.

A road is being laid in time for the January 23 temple festival. Once that is done, vehicles can go up to this point. You can get someone from the village to guide you. Call M. Durai on 0423-2503311 for details.

How to go there

From Ooty, drive up to Pudumundu (2 km) and take the road forking right till Denadcombai (8 km from Ooty). From there take the road to the right.

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