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A village, its temple

Mankode, near Vattapara, with its rustic ambience and ancient temple is a must-see, says Binu Raj

PHOTO: BINU RAJ

PATH TO A TEMPLE Mankode temple beckons visitors

The rustic calmness of a village and the antiquity of an ancient temple makes Mankode near Vattapara, a memorable place to visit. It was a Monday morning and the village folk were busy with their daily chores in the fields nearby.

The temple is the main attraction here and what makes it unique is that there are no vinyl boards, prasada counters or painted concrete structures like we see in a `modern' temple. The exact age of this temple is not known and inscriptions on the rock structures are not decipherable. A granite entrance that greets the visitor adds charm to the antique beauty of the temple. The kalvilakku, yakshithara and nagaprathishta are all typical of an ancient village temple.

Alapurathu madom

The main deity here is Mahavishnu and the temple is the property of Alapurathu Madom. A modest but beautiful nalukettu in wood, the Madom is situated opposite the temple. I step down the old granite steps to reach the Madom. Madhusoodanaru, an octogenarian, is the head of this family and he is the melsanthi of the temple.

Despite his age, he is enthusiastic and recounts the grand festivals that were conducted in the temple till the Malayalam era of 1109.

A buttress in the Madom's akathalam has some writings in `Malayazhma' or old Malayalam, which is an inkling on how old the temple is. The Madom was also a treasure house of old manuscripts in palm leaves including Amarakosam. "All are housed in the Archaeology department now," says Madhusoodanaru's wife who does not want to be named.

This madom was originally a pathinaru kettu and a majestic structure in front of it is proof . The family calls it Meda. Now it is used as a bathing ghat. A sacred grove and a pond are also nearby.

Madhusoodanaru says that the family and the temple once had close links with Sree Padmanabha Temple and the royal family of erstwhile Trvancore. The temple is situated on top of a hill and from here you can see the fields and farmers grow vegetables like snake gourd, spinach and bitter gourd. You can buy these straight from their fields.

You can also see some madakkadas on the way where you get a full glass of naadan sambharam (buttermilk) for Rs. 2.

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