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Deeper into Tasmania

Street performers, Victorian architecture, Boysenberry ice cream and more


To get from Strahan to Hobart in Tasmania we'd driven through a region that could be described as a soft harmonious pastel colour painting with delightful twisty roads, the multi-hued rainforests, the shimmering lakes and the crisp morning air complementing that fantastic three and a half hour drive. But Salamanca square in Hobart where the morning market was on was a vibrant in-your-face modern art masterpiece. The whole place was bustling with an infectious buzz as shoppers browsed and bargained at an array of stalls set up by locals to sell local produce. The market has a big focus on organic produce right from fruits and vegetables to bread and pastries. There were handicrafts made of Huon Pine, a wood that doesn't rot as it contains special oil and the trees live for up to 2,000 years. But it's the Buskers who add a delightful charm to this market. Buskers are street performers who can range from a full 8 member band to a lone 8 year old girl standing in front of her music notes and playing haunting tunes on the clarinet. These are hobby musicians who practise their passion in front of an appreciating audience.

Hobart was our base for two days, wherein we walked around the gorgeous old town behind Salamanca Square. The Visitors Centre has a very interesting walking map that goes through Hobart's prettiest neighbourhoods, resplendent with Victorian architecture and uncluttered by modern high-rises.

The next day, we drove a clockwise circuit around Hobart going to Bruny Island - a place that makes you seriously consider becoming an illegal immigrant with its blue waters, amazing beaches and charming little villages - then Peppermint Bay and the Tahune Skywalk - a cantilever platform that takes you on a circuit round the rainforest at tree top level - before getting back to Hobart.

What we did the most in Tasmania was drive. But then, Tasmania is meant to be seen by road. So when we drove from Hobart to Port Arthur, our first stop was Richmond, 25 km away. This town was almost entirely built by convict labour and their most famous construction is what still stands strong today as Australia's oldest bridge across the Coal River, dating back to 1823. Across the bridge is St John's, the oldest remaining Catholic Church and completing the trio of `oldest' on the continent is also its oldest gaol. Driving on, we sampled strawberries at the Sorell fruit farm, stopped at the Tasman Peninsula National Park and walked on the Tessellated Pavement, a natural floor of volcanic rock tiles tempered by the ocean over the ages. Still further on came the isthmus of Eaglehawk Neck and a delicious lunch of hot Tasmanian pies and blue and creamy Boysenberry icecream near the Devils Kitchen and Tasman Arch, both erosion-formed rock wonders.

With so many indulgent distractions en route, Port Arthur, which we thought we'd get to in 2 hours, became a 10-hour journey. But Port Arthur should absolutely not be missed. Why? That, I'll tell you next week.

RISHAD SAAM MEHTA

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