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History through the shades of a watercolour

An old painting, at the Fort Kochi Corporation office, is perhaps the only surviving, visual evidence of the signal tower that stood at the centre of the Nehru Park, centuries ago

SIGN OF THE TIMES A photo of the watercolour that shows the signal tower around which all sea-faring activities took place. PHOTO: MAHESH HARILAL

As Time treads on events, towns, nature, men and women. As they fall at the sound of its death knell, history emerges from the debris. Mostly unearthed, often inferred from what remains, historical veracity is based on the strength of testimony. And evidence is collated painstakingly from the strangest of corners.

Lost opinions and voices rise from the web spun by time and old paintings of scenes often freeze the past. And one such old watercolour that hangs on the wall of the Fort Kochi Corporation tells the story of what the present day Fort Kochi Square was centuries ago. Paintings stand to tell the whole truth, with less scope for interpolations than the written word. This one enables the reconstruction of the romantic past riddled by tales of war and peace. It tells the history of trade and treachery, of colonies and churches, of marauders and merchants that Fort Cochin is built on.

"This is the only pictorial evidence left of the times and tides in Fort Kochi during European colonisation," says K. J. Sohan, councillor. There are definite textual records in the archives of the area as seen in the picture.

The work is signed but illegible and is of course oblivious of the story it tells. Relegated amidst the files, calendars and notice boards of a government office, the surviving paintingshows the old signal tower that stood at the centre of what is today the Nehru Park. Reconstructing from chronicles of the past, the area was the hub of all sea-faring activities that brought the traders and the colonists to the shores of Kochi. And so the Portuguese, the Dutch and finally the English left their imprint on the area.

Focal point

Reliving the painted times, as in the picture, says Mr. Sohan, "The painting shows the old signal tower. It was a busy signal tower as it communicated with the approaching ships and sent out signals locally too. A basket, a cage, flags, torchlight were all used as signals. A signal was put up when a ship laden with goods was coming. With it the locals knew what was required to board the ship. If coir was to be shipped out they got busy assembling the produce.

Likewise for pepper and other spices. It signalled to fishermen about inclement weather or about sickness on board, a passing or approaching ship. This signal tower was brought down and the remains were razed completely much later when the foundation of the park was laid. The three buildings seen in the painting were the port office, the gear shed and the coal shed. In fact, the Chinese fishing net next to the coal shed is called `Karipura'. Opposite the tower was the Old Harbour Hotel, which housed sailors, and officers who alighted. As the signal station had a tower the road was named Tower Road and remains so till today."

Interesting is the story of the Santa Cruz Basilica which stood behind the present day Laurel Club, one of the three structures seen at the far end of the painting. When the Dutch took over they converted the Basilica into a godown as they were Calvinists. Later, when the British arrived they had to shoot down the godown because the Dutch offered resistance.

The relics, in the form of pillars of the basilica, are found at three places in Fort Kochi. The signal station was the focus of all action, during war and peace. It signalled the coming and the going of traders, merchants and colonisers.

The signal station is no more. At the children's park where it once stood, kids play on swings and slides, their laughter filling the air. Fairy lights and fountains come alive in the evenings; hawkers sell, travellers walk around. There is a strange serenity around this rain tree-lined park.

Quite a contrast, for it was here mutinies rose and fell, fearful exchange of fire shots resounded; the troops marched; merchandise was bartered. It was here that an unseen filtering of culture took place many, many years ago. Now all that exists as memory of this landmark is this forgotten painting on the wall of the Corporation office.

PRIYADARSHINI SHARMA

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