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Nature's tapestry

If you have a fascination for the wild, Pankaja Srinivasan

PHOTO: K. ANANTHAN

TREKKERS' DELIGHT A view of the slope that leads to Yaanai Pallam

It is first just a shimmer in the distance. After a while, a cluster of rooftops appear. That is Yaanaipallam — loosely translated as `elephant hollow'. The bird's eye view you are enjoying now is from a place close to Pilloor Mattam in the Nilgiris.

So far, so good. The scenery is spectacular. Tea bushes cover the slopes like a green quilt. A gentle sun, a fragrant breeze, a bottle of water and some munchies — with soaring spirits, one realises that the first part of the trek is downhill. For city lubbers that is a relief, not having climbed over anything steeper than the speed-breaker.

With a spring in my step and a song on my lips, I set off. Chandrashekhar, a forest department official, was my escort.

He said he would take us through a short cut. Things couldn't have looked rosier. Half way through, we hit upon the main road.

A few strides down and enthusiasm flagged — loose pebbles, uneven terrain, a narrow path and we were nowhere near Yaanaipallam. Ten minutes later, it was bad news.

By the time one limps to the road the world is shrouded in pain. Sinking down to nurse throbbing toes it is a chance to take in the sights.

Meanwhile, in the distance one could spot the Edassery Bungalow, a relic from the British times. Chandrashekhar pointed out little Irula hamlets dotting the forested slopes — with picturesque names such as Korungu Medu, Sadayan Kombai and Chinnalamkombai. He also identified various herbs used to treat wounds, migraines and more.

Chandrashekhar recounted how Yaanaipallam got its name — elephants regularly came to feast on the jackfruit that grows in abundance there.

On the opposite slope there is a flash of silver — it is a stream that winds down to lose itself somewhere in the forest, also home to bear, deer, bison and wild boar.

Birdsong, fluffy clouds, an eagle soaring in the sky and blissful silence — it was almost worth the painful trek.

Footfalls, and an Irula youth, Rangan, who lives in one of the farthest settlements, overtakes and disappears towards his village. Close on his heels is a bunch of kids who are racing down the slope with gay abandon on a makeshift contraption and then gambolling up again — all for fun.

I look ruefully at Rangan's rubber chappals, the children's bare feet and then my own poor feet so fancily shod.

Two hours later, it was time to turn back.

There is regret, partly at leaving so beautiful an ambience and partly because one knows it is an uphill task.

But I did it and would recommend the trek to anyone with a sturdy body and sole.

How to go there

Take the road that winds into the hills at Kaatary at the last hairpin bend before Coonoor.

Thirteen kilometres away is Pilloor Mattam.

Park your vehicle there or at a nearby shed about seven km away.

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