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There's peace at Pangkor

Looking for sun, sand and sea? Perhaps, the Pangkor Island Beach Resort could be one of your destinations

It's touted as an unspoilt tropical island. The ferry from Lumut, a coastal town about two hours drive from Kuala Lumpur, had taken 40 minutes. And then the hotel's van got us to the premises in just five minutes. Resting smugly amidst some 73 acres of tropical forest, fronting a private, mile long white sandy beach and a private bay with crystal clear water, the newly refurbished 258-room Pangkor Island Beach Resort with its new premier Ocean Wing, is stuff dreams are made of.

The resort's low-rise Malay style architecture and open-air lobby with rustic furnishings set the tone, and well-appointed rooms, two pools and superb dining indoors by the poolside, and out on the beach, make it the perfect leisure getaway. The Hornbill Restaurant offers varied culinary styles. Cosy dinners at the Pacific Terrace complete with wine and liquor. You can sip cocktails and dance through the night at the Golden Oriole Lobby Lounge. There's also snorkelling, scuba diving and sailing.

My brushing up of local history revealed that in the past, Pangkor was the refuge of seamen who sailed through the Straits of Malacca. Weary pirates, adventurers, merchants and soldiers of fortune sought its peace for a welcome stopover.

Serene settings

Today, the island's got a completely different function and sports serene fishing villages, small bustling towns and holiday resorts that welcome international tourists. We skirted the coast, then started a climb up Pangkor Hill, hanging on tight. It's a steep climb that offers almost immediate rewards in the form of a stunning view. Back at sea level, we pulled into Sungei Pinang Besar, a little village given to boat-building and repairs. Workers were everywhere, building yet another fishing trawler and repairing `old friends' returning to dock after braving the wide open seas. The next stop on our island jaunt turned out to be something of an enigma. Kota Belanda, the 300 year-old Dutch Fort, was once a Dutch stronghold to protect their tin ingots against pirates and local Malays until a ferocious attack by the latter forced them out of Pangkor. "But where exactly is the fort?" everyone asked. The fact is that it's just a patch of green surrounded by low walls. That's all that remains of the fort.

`Fu Ling Kong' Temple: Perched at the foot of a low hill, this beautiful shrine merits a visit. Here, in all its splendour, is the Mini Great Wall of China, dedicated to one of the temple's deities. The temple's got elaborate architecture and decorations. Roof-perched dragons guard the premises.

The Indian Temple is also a local landmark. It's a plain affair but has a large following on the island.

Pangkor's Main Village is where most tours stop for lunch and shopping, and that's exactly what we did. "Coconut juice," someone asked, "Yes, coconut juice," someone else said with the seriousness such a statement deserved. So coconut juice it was, and it was tasty too. Then came lunch at a Chinese café with plain tables, no linen, skeleton service, but wholesome food. Pangkor's diverse diversions means you won't find time hanging on your hands. The beaches beckon. After you're through, retreat into the shades of virgin jungles.

There's Pantai Puteri Dewi, the golden sands beach with its water sports and shady casuarinas trees; Pantai Pasir Boga; Turtle Bay; Coral Bay; and Golden Sands; other prominent beaches; Teluk Nipah, a sea park with a vast coral reef and spectacular marine life that makes snorkelling a must.

There's also Pangkor Lau, aptly dubbed `fantasy island'. This satellite island of the larger Pangkor island boasts the heavenly Emerald Bay, the finest beach in the Straits of Malacca. Sailing and windsurfing buffs can seek their thrill at Royal Beach.

Pangkor had been a delight, as was the resort. The waves rose and swept in all day and all night. High tide sees the sea come right up, but at low tide there's a 100 metre-long beach expanse exposed. Idyllic stuff.

How to get there:

Pangkor is a 40-minute ferry ride from Lumut, a coastal town about two hours drive from Kuala Lumpur. Buses and taxis ply the island, but check the fare, as the taxis have no metres. You can also rent a motorbike or bicycle, and boats for cruising or fishing.

INDER RAJ AHLUWALIA

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