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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

Wild encounters

If you are lucky, you can spot tigers, panthers and elephants, says Subha J Rao

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

ABHYARANYAM Of animals, Nature and tranquillity

Sometimes, RLTs can throw up great surprises. This one did. On an early morning drive from Masinagudi, herds of spotted deer and sambar, mongooses, wild boars, colourful Malabar giant squirrels and langurs cross our path. All these animals, except elephants and bison, are said to be found in large numbers in the area. We train our eyes on the landscape and scout for any movement in the dry grass. En route to the water source at Kargudi, where animal sightings are frequent, we manage to spot peacocks that preen as if only for our benefit.

Driving on in quest of the elusive pachyderm, we reach Bidruhalla bridge, where all that greets our eyes is fresh dung. The gentle giants have given us the slip, yet again. But don't get disappointed. The scenic beauty of the place has to be seen to be believed. Called Bidruhalla (Bidru - bamboo, halla - gorge), there is predictably a profusion of bamboo here. A thin stream of water flows down the ancient bridge and the silence is welcoming.

With little else to do, we head back in the direction of Masinagudi where a colourful signpost saying Abhyaranyam (the forest that gives refuge) catches the eye. Something tells me there is more to the place than a name and we decide to explore it. We are rewarded by the sight of spotted deer shrouded in a veil of mist. A little further down is a quaint cottage with an all-glass watchtower — the Forest Department rest house, inaugurated in 1958. It is situated on a plateau, and offers a panoramic view. A tree ripe with ber (ilandham) and two stone benches complete the picture.

With the mist forming a perfect backdrop, just sit and listen to the sounds of Nature. The twittering of minivets, the tuk tuk of the woodpecker (three varieties frequent this spot) and other unidentified bird call are music to the ears. If you are lucky, a tiger can come calling at the well appointed guest house, like it did last week — it chose to park itself near the guava tree there. Elephants and panthers are the other visitors, one is told. The friendly caretaker advises us to stay clear of loud music and alcohol. And, he urges us to help keep the zone plastic-free. This year, the sightings have been good, thanks to the absence of forest fires, he says.

Elephants, at last

We finally manage to see an elephant, although a trained one, at the Theppakad elephant camp. A lone tusker is spotted in silhouette. It is difficult at that time of the morning to tell it apart from the stone elephant nearby. The Moyar river flows a little further down. Two captive elephants emerge squeaky clean from the waters while monkeys have a field day emptying the baskets of the local Kurumba women. An old woman fishes in the placid water, unconcerned about the monkeys surrounding her.

The locals seem to have struck a perfect balance with their wild friends.

How to get there

Kargudi is 10 km from Masinagudi. The river is three km from there and Bidruhalla bridge, 4 km away. Avoid travelling in March and April. For reservations at the rest house, write to the Reception Range Officer, c/o Wildlife Warden, Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary, Mount Stuart Hill, Ooty - 643001, the Nilgiris. E-mail wlooty@vsnl.com or call 0423-2444098, 2526235. Food is available at the rest house on request.

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