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Take a hike

You can lose yourself in the forests here, says SOMA BASU

SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF THESE... At Kuttikanam PHOTO: SOMA BASU

Strongly recommended by a friend, who described it as a dreamland, I head for Kuttikanam on a weekend morning. A180 km drive from Madurai, it is located in Idukki district of Kerala.

Four hours after crossing Usilampatti, Theni and Kambum, I enter the final lap of my journey on the Kumilly-Kottayam Road. Almost immediately, one can see Kerala's beauty unfold, much of which comes from its greenery and plantations.

Kuttikanam is a tranquil hill station at an elevation of 3,850 feet, which gives it a cool weather round the year. As I begin my ascent, the misty range of Western Ghats appears like a haven for those seeking a getaway from the heat and dust of urban life.

With road repair work going on, the last four kilometres was, however, rickety. But the clean air and scenic countryside soothe your nerves and make you forget the weariness. Once at the top, Kuttikanam appears like being embraced by Nature. Rolling hills dotted with coffee, cardamom, pepper, tea and vanilla plantations, interspersed by jungles, grasslands and rocky areas, the beauty of this place is unspoilt. And unexplored too.

This picturesque town is ideal for both adventure tourism or a languorous break. But there are only a handful of private hotels and one motel run by KTDC that are fully booked particularly in the winter season, October to February, when the mercury dips to 10 degrees Celsius. So, it is safe to book your accommodation in advance. The best way to enjoy the beauty of this place is by going on long walks. The cool breeze works like a therapist on the body and mind. But if you looking for some adventure, you can go trekking. You can lose yourself in acres of pine forests. But be careful, as the needle-like leaves on the ground can be slippery. You can also find your way through the vast expanses of tea and coffee plantations with small streams, open grasslands and winding lanes filled with a heady fragrance. The highest peak in Kuttikanam is Amrithamedu, which is an ideal trekking spot for professionals. There is a waterfall nearby called Valanjanganam. Madammakkulam is a natural pond at the foot of the waterfall, surrounded by dense vegetation; it could make for a delightful stopover. It is said that the European planters and architects who came to Kerala during early 18th Century were the first to discover the beauty of Kuttikanam. They built a Church that stands with dreamy cypress trees all around even today. The wives of these foreign settlers used to bathe in Madammakkulam while the locals were not allowed anywhere near the pond. Hence it got the name `madamma' (referring to a foreign lady) kulam.

Kuttikanam also has ayurvedic centres and outlets selling ayurvedic medicines and herbal products besides of course a variety of spices, condiments and tea.

Another interesting place here is the summer palace of the Maharajas of Travancore. The teak structures, the corroded floor tiles, the smoke stained hearths, the underground escape passage, the huge central courtyard, the endless corridors, the stables, all tell tales of the royal times.

The Maharani's palace and the summer residence of the Dewan of Travancore are also nearby. I am told that the person who has bought the place is converting it into a heritage resort.

Some of the locals suggest that I should not miss the beautiful view of the setting sun. But the clouds play the spoilsport. So, I decide to stay back to watch the sun rise. The next morning, I thank myself for the wise decision.

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