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Goa on a platter

From the land of football and feni comes Urbano de Rego. Liza George meets the chef who has cooked for presidents and captains of industry

SIZZLING SEAFOOD Chef Urbano de Rego: You pick up the knack for preparing Goan dishes through trial and error

He has been dishing out classic Goan cuisine for well over 30 years. An icon in his own right, Chef Urbano de Rego has served Goan eats to the who's who of the world like Margaret Thatcher, George Bush Sr. and Ratan Tata. However, being a chef was not on Rego's mind. An avid footballer, he was all set to join the Tata Group's football team, but an injured eardrum proved to be a stumbling block. He then joined Taj in Mumbai as an apprentice.

Time and effort

Goan cuisine, according to Rego, is a complicated one. "Traditional Goan cooking requires plenty of muscle and time. Grinding is always part of the recipe and the nicer the dish, the longer it takes to make. For instance the `Xacutti masala,' which is a famous Goan preparation for chicken, mutton and vegetable dishes, has 18 spices roasted individually and ground together. You pick up the knack for preparing Goan dishes through trial and error," explains Rego.

Goan food, says Rego is divided into two. While ethnic Goan food does not seem to have picked up any major Portugese influences, the cuisine of Christians in Goa have been influenced not only by the Portugese, but also its overseas colonies.

"For example from Brazil, we have `Feigoada,' which is pork cooked with red kidney beans and from Africa, we have `Galinha Cafreal,' which is boneless chicken marinated in toddy vinegar, black pepper and green masala," says Rejo.

Like Malayalis, Goans use a lot of coconut in their food. He says the use of toddy vinegar, Schezwan chillies and kokum in Goan dishes is probably the only difference between Goan and Keralan cuisine. Particular combination of spices have led to a number of styles of cooking, which have a subtly flavours - `vindaloo,' `balchao' and `amot tik' being some of the famous.

Celebrities' choice

Rego has his own restaurant in Goa, under the Taj. Called `Rego Beach House' at Taj Holiday Village, Vijay Mallya, is a frequent visitor. Vijay, he says likes simple dishes like `Clams in coconut' and `Prawn stuffed pappad.' Ratan Tata, if on a visit, drops by and orders `Prawns Amto,' prawns with mango, and `Clams cutlet.'

A stickler to quality, Rego tries to ensure his plates come back clean. "Only if the dishes are empty, am I satisfied. That is a sign that the food was good. Besides, it gives me the courage to walk up to the table and ask the guests if they enjoyed their meal," says Rego with a grin.

Food fete

Chef Rego is in the city as part of the `League of Extraordinary Chefs,' which is being organised by the Taj. Every once in two months, a renowned chef is brought down to showcase their talent. He will be showcasing his, as part of `The Great Goan Feast.'

He specialises in `Camaro con cilantro' (King prawns marinated in lemon, green chilli and cooked in fresh coriander sauce), `Galinha Cafreal' (boneless chicken marinated in toddy vinegar, black pepper and green masala and grilled), `Pork Vindaloo' (diced pork cooked in spicy toddy vinegar, in a red masala gravy) and the likes.

Rego from Taj Holiday Village, Goa, will cast his spell on his customers in Taj Green Cove, Kovalam, through his scrumptious Goan preparations till March 19.

Try `Semolina fried prawns' on skewers with chilli mango dip as starters. Have `Mushroom, cashewnut and pea xacutti' (mushroom, cashewnut and grean peas cooked in a pre-roasted spicy gravy) or the famous Goan fish curry with rice or have soft fluffy steamed `saannas,' which remind you of idlis with `sorpotel.'

The dessert section will not disappoint you either. The `Alle Belle' (coconut roll pancake with jaggery sauce), `Bolo Chocolate Roulade Con Gealado Coco' (Coconut and Mango Chocolate roll with coconut ice cream) will surely make you want seconds.

Apart from food, a group of Goan performers will serenade the customers with their Portugese, Goan and Konkan songs. To unwind, special Goan cocktails will be available.

Divided into four menus, which change on a daily basis, the vegetarian menu is priced at Rs. 550, and the non-vegetarian at Rs. 750 onwards.

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