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Quiet flows the Cauvery

Talacauvery offers balm for body and soul

It's 8.30 a.m., and the morning mist refuses to unveil the beauty of Bhagamandalam, an inconspicuous town in Coorg. An attraction here is the Bhagandeswara Temple.

Bhagamandala is the confluence of the sacred rivers of Cauvery and Kannike and legend has it that a third river, Sujyothi, a subterranean stream, joins the two rivers.

The Bhagandeshwara temple is located on the banks of the two rivers and is one of the important pilgrimage centers in Coorg. Pilgrims proceed to Talacauvery only after offering worship at Bhagamandala.

An autorickshaw driver announces "Rs. 100 to Talacauvery," and I accept his offer.

Cool breeze

Eight kilometres uphill, set amidst the majestic Brahmagiri Hills is the source of the Cauvery river with the Talacauvery Temple built around it.

The journey uphill is pleasant with its cool breeze. At a viewpoint, on the way, one can see nearly the whole of Coorg.

The road become busy only on Tulasankramana day (October 17) when thousands of pilgrims flock to the river's birthplace to witness the miraculous rise of the fountainhead, when water gushes up from the spring at a predetermined moment.

Outside the non-descript temple, there are a couple of stalls selling costume jewellery and gift items. The temple is not huge, there is a rectangular pond, and at the other side of the pond, we see a priest offering flowers to a golden idol.

The Cauvery river is supposed to originate here. After the holy dip, visitors take a long flight of steps to the top of the Bhramagiri mountains.

Climbing the 370 steps may seem like a breeze, but we find ourselves panting.

Huffing and puffing, we reach the top and we were greeted by a majestic sight. The cragged contours of distant mountains merge with the blue of the sky.

After three hours of soaking the scenic beauty and breathing the fresh, clean air, we head back down.

Hungry, I decide to try the restaurant I spotted earlier. Dosa, pongal and idli was what they had to offer.

Picking up a bottle of honey, I head back home, rejuvenated.

How to get there

It takes four hours for you to reach Madikeri from Thalassery bus stand. Bhagamandala is on the foothills of Talacauvery and is 39 km from Madikeri.

MANU REMAKANT

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