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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

Braemore, an English retreat

Braemore is characteristically English in Indian settings

It is nine in the morning but Braemore is still under a misty veil. She awakens lazily to the morning light. Established by the British in 1880s, it is a tea, rubber, coffee and spices plantation.

Fascinated by its natural beauty the British named it after a place in Scotland. A trekker's paradiseit is also a great weekend hideout. The bungalows built by the British add charm to this high range holiday destination.

As I was navigating the hairpins a hypnotising fragrance hung over me. On arrival I decide to take a walk around the estate with my guide and host, Mohan. A winding pathway led me to an elegant, simple bungalow. According to Mohan, the hot water supply system in this building is still a puzzle to engineers. The irrigation system adopted by the estate is a wonder too. Water from streams is poured into a small tank using areca nut tree trunks that are cut vertically. The water gathered is refreshing and a treat for tired trekkers.

Another path leads you to the tennis court. "It was once used as a helipad where Queen Elizabeth landed," says Mohan. It is now used as drying yard.

On the way to the nearby Marigold Estate, I discovered from where that hypnotic fragrance came. The path was carpeted by fallen `naagapoovu'. The landmark of the Braemore estate is an old tea factory. Built in 1833, the granite structure is unique in terms of construction. Two churches and a Ganapathy temple were also built during this time. A 300-year-old Sree Sastha temple, close to the Braemore forest is unique in its architecture.

There are close to 50 waterfalls located in these 900 acres, including the Braemore upper water, Anatheri falls and rock garden falls. These waterfall points are great resting spots for trekkers. The famous hill station at Thiruvananthapuram, Ponmudi is only one-and-a-half hour trekking distance from here. This trail is enchanting as it is through forest and grasslands. The more exciting trekking path is the four-hour trekking route to Sarma peak or Varayadu kunnu where you can spot the Nilgiri Tahrs. Take a local guide while in Braemore and spend the night in the tree top hut or in the Ramayana Cave. This cave beats any air-conditioned room.

Braemore estate is a palette of beauty and taste. It is a temple of nature. As I leave Braemore, I stick a nagapoovu on my vehicle and bid farewell with a heavy heart.

S. BINU RAJ

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