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As the hour begins...

A sneak peak into the style statement of some major names participating in the Lakme Fashion Week

ALL FOR FREEDOM A model in a Manish Malhotra dress

This seems to be the year where designers are breaking free from their images. Inspired by Sufism, Manish Malhotra has taken a break from his colours to design an all-white collection called "Freedom". Falguni and Shane Peacock have said goodbye to their trademark animal prints in their Peacock Girl collection, and Rocky S has taken a break from his film assignments to concentrate on prêt. The biggest surprise, however, is Sabyasachi Mukherjee who is not doing layering this year.

There are two major influences this year - Victorian and minimalist. One thing is sure designers are concentrating on highlighting the feminine side of the woman this year. While Rocky and Falguni have created a Victorian era with Rocky going for corsets creating a 70s look. "There is a blend of the new and the old with tweed and laces. Black and white is big this year but I have also used lots of red as well," says Rocky explaining his "Lovely Lolitas". Inspired by the Oscar nominated Pride and Prejudice, Falguni has also conjured a vintage image.

One language

Ashish Soni on his part has stayed minimalist. Giving vintage an Indian twist, Ashish is inspired by Indian royalty. "Minimalism has been my signature style. You could no longer speak Hindi at home and English in school. You have to speak one language."

Inspired by the Amish community who believe in renouncement, Sabyasachi says at times, you become bored of your strengths. "You want to search new ones. That's why no layering this year." Calling his collection "Snail" post modern, he maintains those who have stayed with Victorian are behind times. "To me simplicity is in. My collection is more in the form of uniforms. Everything is hand made with geisha and mark-resist printing. After the shine and sparkle, people are looking for alternative, individualistic clothing."

While others are going for finely structured silhouettes, Sabya is for loose structures creating "hobbled and flouncing effect." Skirt is going to rule this year, just the shapes have changed. If Sabya is for flounce, Rocky has created balloon skirts. "Skirts make 80 per cent of my collection," laughs Rocky.

As for the finale, Ritu Beri has conjured up a combination of humour and style in interpreting Lakme's Happy Hour statement for the season. "It's a poetic expression combining the sophistication and stylish sides of a woman," says Ritu.

A.K.

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