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Peace in the wilderness

Thanks to the animals, the orchestra at night is different here

PHOTOS K. ANANTHAN

FAIRY LAND The Wilds at Northern Hay

A bored city bird whose idea of a holiday is watching television non-stop would wonder what all the fuss was about this old, zinc-roofed coffee shed. But for someone who loves old things (the coffee shed is of 1920s vintage) and enjoys being in the wild, this is heaven.

For where else can you wake up in the dead of night to hear animal calls? The shriek of the peacock, the shuffling of paws as a wild boar digs in search of roots, the thud-thud of the elephant, the lingering meow of a wild cat ... All this could be yours at a resort set in Northern Hay, a coffee plantation in the midst of the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary.

This is quite simply, The Wilds. And it is a no-fuss affair. Three old-world bedrooms (one has a four-poster bed inlaid with mother-of-pearl) with attached bathrooms, a cosy drawing room with a fireplace and a dining hall designed for hearty meals. The beauty lies in the details. Family heirlooms have been dusted, polished and placed in vantage points. Like the Mughal headgear, which has been converted into a lampshade. As its shadow falls on the off-white walls, the numerous iron rings on it look quite fetching. Antique paintings dating back to the 1880s and 1890s, and steel etchings line the walls.

Most of the furniture is European with a profusion of delicate floral patterns.

The red-oxide patio with easy chairs in cane and leather is a haven for book lovers. Dog-eared books on the tables (choose from titles on wildlife, biographies and heritage and old magazines), will keep you company as you sip on lime tea. You don't want to read, just take in the view of the organic coffee plantation.

What's a holiday without good food? The resident cook, Joseph, is every dietician's nightmare. He does not believe in small portions and stands ever ready to replenish forkfuls of fragrant vegetable dum biriyani onto a fast-emptying plate and serve you endless plates of fresh fruit. Once he has decided you are sated enough, you are permitted to leave.

After lunch, you can't help but surrender yourself to a snooze. The absolute silence is just the perfect setting for it. At four, it is time to get ready for a jungle safari in an open 1942 Ford jeep, which takes some time to warm up. We soon switch to a faster Gypsy. The Ford, though a little inconvenient, provides an unhindered view of the landscape. Just a little away from the resort, a herd of spotted deer disdainfully ignores us and continues with its grazing.

Siva, the Irula elder who looks after the guests at the resort, is our guide for the safari. He is the third generation in his family to be working on this plantation and knows the place inside out. He stands guard in the jeep, flashlight in hand, ready to point out any wild animal to us. We drive through grassland and some dry forest when, at last, there's some movement in the grass. Sambar deer. The herd poses patiently for the photographer ... Then, as if on cue, they sprint.

While passing by the brown-green pasture, Siva points out places where they normally sight elephants, bears, bison and tigers after sundown. But, an orange Sun is still peeping through the tall trees. That reduces our chances of an encounter with a pachyderm or big cat. Sighting is best at dawn or after dusk.

Once you get back from the safari, head to the blazing log fire at a raised platform. This is the perfect place for making small talk and getting to know the others who stay at The Wilds. The platform and a barbeque counter have been carved out of the plantation and offer a great view. It is flowering season now and the moonbeam falling on the thousands of creamy white flowers arranged symmetrically on the coffee bushes transports you to a different world.

You can sit by the river flowing through the plantation and catch up on your reading, visit an elephant camp, go trekking or head for a picnic under a tree. Members of worldwide society of the 4X4 club also frequent this place. Ambareen Sait, who runs the resort, says it is best suited for those with a love for nature. Here, don't expect loud music and blaring television sets.

How to go

To reach the resort, drive down till Masinagudi and take the road leading to Singara. Call the resort (a five-minute drive away) and someone will pick you up from there. It is a five-minute drive from there.

Rates

Rs. 1,675 for a day-night stay. The safari, barbeque and trek cost extra. An extra bed costs Rs. 400. Breakfast is Rs. 75 and lunch and dinner Rs. 200. Pay Rs. 50 extra for a barbeque.

Call Ambareen at 98431-49490 or 0423-2449490 for reservations. Or e-mail thewildstay@yahoo.com

SUBHA J RAO

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