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There's peace in the wilderness
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The Wilds, set amidst a coffee plantation in the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary, is for those who love Nature
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PHOTO: K. ANANTHAN
AN OLD WORLD CHARM The Wilds
A bored city bird whose idea of a holiday is watching TV non-stop would wonder what all the fuss is about an old, zinc-roofed coffee shed. But for someone who loves old things (the coffee shed is of 1920s vintage) and enjoys being in the wild, this is heaven.
For, where else can you wake up in the dead of night to hear animal call? The shriek of a peacock, the shuffling of paws as a wild boar digs looking for roots, the trumpeting of an elephant, the meow of a wild cat ...
Experience all this and more at a resort set in Northern Hay, a coffee plantation in the midst of the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary.
This is quite simply The Wilds. And it is a no-fuss affair — three old-world bedrooms (one has a four-poster bed inlaid with mother-of-pearl) with attached bathrooms, a cosy drawing room with a fireplace and a dining hall designed for hearty meals.
Heirlooms galore
The beauty lies in the details. Family heirlooms have been dusted, polished and placed at vantage points. Like the Mughal headgear, which has been converted into a lampshade. As its shadow falls on the off-white walls, the numerous iron rings on it look quite fetching. Paintings, dating back to the 1880s and 1890s, and steel etchings line the walls.
Most of the furniture is European with a profusion of delicate floral patterns. The red-oxide patio with easy chairs in cane and leather is a haven for book lovers. Dog-eared books on the tables (choose from titles on wildlife, biographies and heritage, and old magazines) keep you company as you sip lime tea. You don't want to read? Just take in the view of the plantation.
What's a holiday without good food? The resident cook, Joseph, is every dietician's nightmare. He does not believe in small portions and stands ever ready to replenish forkfuls of fragrant vegetable dum biriyani on to a fast-emptying plate and serves you endless plates of fresh fruit.
After lunch, you can't help but surrender to the need to snooze. At four, it is time to get ready for a jungle safari in an open 1942 Ford jeep, which takes some time to warm up. We soon switch to a faster Gypsy. The Ford, though a little inconvenient, provides an unhindered view of the landscape. Just a little distance away from the resort, a herd of spotted deer disdainfully ignores us and continues with its grazing.
Siva, the Irula elder who looks after the guests at the resort, is our guide for the safari. He is the third generation in his family to work on this plantation and knows the place inside out. He stands guard in the jeep, flashlight in hand, ready to point out any wild animal.
We drive through grassland and some dry forest when, at last, there's some movement in the grass. Sambar deer. The herd poses patiently for the photographer. Then, as if on cue, they sprint.
Animal sighting
While passing by the brown-green pasture, Siva points out places where they normally sight elephants, bears, bison and tigers after sundown. But, an orange sun is still peeping through the tall trees. That reduces our chances of encountering a pachyderm or big cat. Sighting is best at dawn or after dusk.
Once you get back from the safari, head to the blazing log fire at a raised platform.
You can sit by the river flowing through the plantation and catch up on your reading, visit an elephant camp, go trekking or go picnicking under a tree. Ambareen Sait, who runs the resort, says it is best suited for those who love Nature. So, don't expect loud music or blaring TV sets here.
How to get there
To reach the resort, drive down till Masinagudi and take the road leading to Singara. Call the resort and someone will pick you up from there. It is a five-minute drive from there.
Rates
Rs. 1,675 for a day-night stay. The safari, barbeque and the trek cost extra. An extra bed costs Rs. 400. Breakfast is Rs. 75 while lunch and dinner cost Rs. 200. Pay Rs. 50 extra for a barbeque. Call 98431-49490 or 0423-2449490 for reservations. Or e-mail thewildstay@yahoo.com
SUBHA J RAO
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