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Over to Generation Next

A few names that are expected to make a mark at the forthcoming Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week

Photos: Rajeev Bhatt and Sandeep Saxena

THE FUTURE IS HERE Models sporting the creations of Siddartha Tytler (below) and Gaurav Gupta to be showcased at WLIFW

Amidst the designer downpour, there are a few fresh drops anxiously waiting to be noticed as the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week opens this week. In the past, we have seen it takes just one good Week to make a designer a household entity. Remember Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Varun Bahl. This year, there are 10 designers going to make their debut. For some like Siddartha Tytler, Manav Gangwani and Gauri and Nainika, it is hard earned, as they have been waiting in the wings for a while. For others, the spat over fashion weeks proved lucky, as overnight the ramps multiplied.

Inspired by Varanasi

Siddartha Tytler has spent over five months on his collection called "Moksha", out of which he was busy for two months sourcing fabric from Varanasi. Famous for his knee-length jackets, Siddartha admits he is both excited and petrified.

"The collection is a contradiction of sorts. Part of it, which is inspired by Kashi, spells freedom, while the other half with its military cuts, represents a regimented life." Some of the highlights include foil printing, where metal is used to give an impression of embroidery and Chantilly lace that he has imported from France. "Lace and velvet are going to be big this year. Overall the collection is minimalist, the richness comes from the fabric, which is a mix of silk and cotton with ample use of brocade."

Starting from the name of his label where his name is spelled in reverse order, to his resume which includes a degree from Central Saint Martins, London, Gaurav Gupta appears to be a designer to be watched closely this year. He has already showcased his work at the Rome Fashion Week, where he was awarded the Future of Couture Trophy. Besides he has worked with biggies like Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Hussein Chalyan.

"I am out to challenge mundane notions about modern fashion." Gupta has tried to interpret the kurtas, T-shirts, skirts and other silhouettes in an innovative manner where the draping takes a sculptural form.

"The influence is Greek and Roman. There is an interplay of proportions and perception while the focus is on detailing." Going with the trend, he has used muted colours. Unlike their counterparts in Mumbai, here the newcomers do not want to use star power to attract eyeballs.

"When you have just 15 minutes to show and you are not allowed to showcase more than 30 ensembles, it makes sense to concentrate only on clothes for the Week that are meant for buyers. And they are not bothered whether a Bollywood star or a popular veejay is sporting them. Personal clients and the media can be entertained later," avers Nainika of the Gauri and Nainika label.

Known for sticking to the feminine look, the sisters have been inspired by the Broadway production, "The Phantom of the Opera." "There is a Gothic feel to the collection. The silhouettes are form flattering with lots of volume. There are fish tail skirts and shirt dresses. The colours are dark with a metallic sheen to them accentuated by the use of taffeta silk."

Despite all the Victorian influences Nainika maintains their USP continues to be wearability and affordability.

The USPs

Another unique selling point that the young brigade has come up with is holding previews of their collections, thereby forcing their seniors to share information about their work as well. Reasons Siddharth, "It's an attempt to give the media an opportunity to have a close look. This would help them understand what to expect during the Week."

As for the design, Gaurav says the Indian market is finally breaking free from the "couture stands for trousseau" mould and it's a welcome sign for young designers who are ready to experiment. Namrata Joshipura who is into her second year at the Week holds that the seniors are at a disadvantage. "They have an established clientele. So they can't suddenly change their style in the name of experimentation. We have nothing to lose." Ranna Gill, who is changing with the times, says it's a worldwide phenomenon. "When designers move from couture to prêt, they try to cut down on cost, but the sensibility remains the same. This doesn't work." JJ Valaya, one of the founding members of the FDCI, is happy with the rise in the number of designers.

"The market is getting big by the day so sustenance is a non-issue. My only concern is they should evolve a signature style. Recently, I saw pictures of designers showing at Mumbai and it seemed all the dresses could be the work of one designer. Forecasts and inspirations are fine, but you should have your own character so that your creation can be identified from a 100 others."

ANUJ KUMAR

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