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Life on the blue lagoon

Chilika Lake is a showpiece for tourists but also a lifeline for fishermen, writes D.B.N. MURTHY

PRIDE OF ORISSA A view of the Chilika Lake, where fish varieties are plentiful.

As I gazed at the vast stretch of water, it seemed endless until it touched the horizon. Gentle waves lapped the shore and it was all so peaceful. The Chilika lake is not just a showpiece for tourists but is a lifeline for the thousands of fishermen living in the villages all along the coast. Their very lives depend on the catch from the bountiful lake. However, of late, there is a conflict of interests between traditional fishing and modern mechanised fishing. The lake is well stocked with fish, mackerel, prawn and crabs and other seafood delicacies. Those who find fishing a hobby would enjoy the outing on the shores.

A person with whom I had a chat as I sat on its shore enjoying the gentle ripples of waves on my feet, was knowledgeable about Chilika. "Sir, do you know it is the largest brackish inland water lake in India? It stretches along the coastline of Orissa in three districts of the State, Puri, Khurda and Ganjam with an area of 1100 sq.km."

Haven for birds

The Bay of Bengal juts into the lake via a narrow mouth giving the lake waters the high tide and low tide phenomenon. In some places around the lake, small hills form the backdrop, adding to the beauty. A number of small green islands dots the lake, a haven for migratory birds. I was informed that we need to hire a boat to see all these lovely but isolated islands.

I was disappointed there were hardly any package tours. Contrast this with a place like the lake districts of the U.K. where it is big business with private operators vying with one another to attract tourists. Thus it is left to the individuals or groups to make their own arrangements to enjoy the lake that is the pride of Orissa.

The nearest point of entry to the lake is the village of Chilika, near the railway station of Balugaon. The Orissa Government's tourist complex is located on the lakefront but one should book in advance which I came to know rather late. A small enclosure, near the lakefront, is meant for water sports like water-skiing.

A close-up view of life at the aquamarine park in Satapada

The village of Chilika has just one private lodge, which makes life difficult for visitors who would like to stay there. Nearby is the Chilika railway station. The Navy has established a small naval station on the lakeshore. Those lucky to get a seat in the boat may visit the temple of Goddess Kalijai situated on a small island.

The highlight of the trip to Chilika was my scenic train-ride that touches a few points on this vast lake to Rambha, 22km away. The train passes close to the lake most of the time which gives an idea of the vastness of the lake, the small islands dotted with trees, and a few with migrant birds, and small villages along the shore.

Rambha is a lovely place with the backdrop of small hills with more greenery in the surroundings. Orissa Tourism has a guesthouse, which should be booked in advance.

Given the lack of facilities for small groups that cannot afford to hire boats and take taxis, the tourists do not have much choice in enjoying the scenic beauty of the lake. For instance, to approach Satapada, a village near the narrow mouth of the lake to see the cavorting dolphins, there is little information how one can approach it. Similarly, colourful islands like Parikud and Malud within the lake are hardly accessible by regular tourists unless one can join an organised expedition for discovering the beauty and exciting spots in Chilika. Thus, a casual visitor can have only a fleeting glance.

Even a short sojourn near the lake is an uplifting experience. While one is there, one can only spare a thought to the thousands of fishermen who depend on the lake for their survival toiling in the hot sun. And lastly, enjoy the lake but do not pollute.

How to go: By bus, taxi or train to Chilika, nearest station is Chilika / Balugaon.

Accommodation: Orissa Tourism's guesthouse (Panth Nivas) at Chilika / Rambha. Advance booking is necessary. Private accommodation is hard to find.

Best season to visit: Cooler months of October to March. However, the lake is accessible throughout the year.

Transport: Cycle-rickshaw, taxi, bus, train and boat for sojourn in the Chilika lake.

Food: Orissa Tourism guesthouse in Chilika / Rambha, dhabas

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