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Over to generation next

Here are a few names expected to make a mark at the forthcoming Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week

THE FUTURE IS HERE Models showcasing the creations of Siddartha Tytler (top) and Gaurav Gupta (below) to be showcased at WLIFW PHOTOS: RAJEEV BHATT AND SANDEEP SAXENA

Amidst the designer downpour there are a few fresh drops anxiously waiting to be noticed as the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week opens this week.

In the past, we have seen it takes just one good Week to make a designer a household entity. Remember Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Varun Bahl? This year there are 10 designers going to make their debut. For some like Siddartha Tytler, Manav Gangwani and Gauri and Nainika it is hard earned for they have been waiting in the wings for a while. For others the spat over fashion weeks proved lucky, as overnight the ramps got multiplied. Still others like Gaurav Gupta have entered the fray with his international achievements preceding him.

Siddartha Tytler has spent over five months over his collection called "Moksha", out of which for two months he was busy sourcing fabric from Varanasi. Famous for his knee-length jackets, Siddartha admits he is both excited and petrified.

Oozing freedom

"The collection is a contradiction in terms. A part of it, which is inspired by Kashi oozes freedom, while the other half represents regimented life through military cuts." Some highlights of his collection include foil printing, where metal is used to give an impression of embroidery and Chantilly lace that he has imported from France. "Lace and velvet are going to be big this year. Overall the collection is minimalist, the richness comes from the fabric — a mix of silk and cotton."

Starting from the name of his label where his name is spelled in reverse order to his resume, which includes a degree from Central Saint Martins, London, Gaurav Gupta appears to be the designer to be watched closely. He has already showcased his work at Rome Fashion Week, where he was awarded Future of Couture Trophy. Besides he has worked with biggies like Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Hussein Chalyan.

"I am out to challenge some mundane notions of modern fashion." Gupta has tried to interpret the kurtas, T-shirts, skirts and other silhouettes in an innovative manner where the draping takes a sculptural form. He has tried origami pattern cutting. "The influence is Greek and Roman. There is an interplay of proportions and perception while the concentration is on detailing." Going with the trend he has used muted colours.

Unlike their counterparts in Mumbai, the newcomers participating in the fashion event in Delhi do not want to use star power to attract eyeballs.

"When you have just 15 minutes and you cannot showcase more than 30 ensembles, it makes sense to concentrate on clothes to attract the buyers. And they are not moved by whether a Bollywood star walks the ramp. Personal clients and the media could be entertained later," avers Nainika of the Gauri and Nainika label.

Known for sticking to the feminine look, the sisters have been inspired by the Broadway production, "The Phantom of the Opera." "There is a Gothic feel to the collection. The silhouettes are form flattering with lots of volumes. There are fish tail skirts and shirts dresses. The colours are dark with a metallic sheen to them accentuated by the use of taffeta silk."

Despite all the Victorian influences Nainika maintains their USP continues to be wearability and affordability.

The USPs

Another USP that the young brigade has come up with is holding previews of their collections, thereby forcing their senior counterparts to share information about their work as well. Reasons Siddharth, "It's an attempt to give the media an opportunity to have a look up close. This would help them in understanding what to expect."

As for the design, Gaurav says Indian market is finally breaking free from "couture stands for trousseau" mould and it's a welcome sign for young designers for they are ready to experiment. Namrata Joshipura, who is into her second year at the Week, holds that seniors are at a disadvantage. "They have an established clientele. So they can't suddenly change their style and experiment. We have nothing to lose." Ranna Gill, who is changing with times, says it's a worldwide phenomenon. "When designers move from couture to prêt, they try to cut down on the cost but the sensibility remains the same. This doesn't work." JJ Valaya, one of the founding members of the FDCI, is happy with the rise in numbers. "The market is getting big by the day so sustenance is a non-issue. My only concern is they should evolve a signature style."

ANUJ KUMAR

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