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Navratras down the ages

The Navratras have acquired more zealous participation in recent years, says R.V. SMITH recounting the days of worship during the Navratras from the Moghul invasion onwards

When Taimur invaded India in September 1398, it was time for the Navratras preceding Dussehra. How these were affected is not known, but presumably restraint was observed, though the celebrations at that time were not so widespread as now. In those days rituals were simple, with the Kalkaji mandir and the one at the other end of the city, Jhandewalan, being the two highly venerated centres in Delhi.

While the Kalkaji mandir dates back to dim antiquity, Jhandewalan is said to have come into prominence during the reign of Prithviraj Chauhan in the last quarter of the 12th Century. His daughter Bela is believed to have built a temple in this area. Taimur arrived 200 years later. Nadir Shah's invasion took place 341 years after that of Taimur's. The Navratras had concluded and so there was no question of any impact on them. But the massacre dampened Id celebrations for some time in the Capital.

Mohammed Shah Rangila, the then reigning Moghul Emperor, was quite secular in his approach and celebrated festivals like Basant, Holi and Diwali. Bahadur Shah Zafar, who came to the throne about 100 years after Nadir Shah's invasion, was fond of eating the dal and rassa (with puris) sent by the seths of Chandi Chowk during the Navratras, also known as Navratri. The change in nomenclature is of recent origin.

Historical evidence of Moghul participation (besides the stories of Akbar and his Rajput queens) in Delhi dates back to the time of Shah Alam, who helped in the reconstruction of the Kalkaji temple the biggest venue then for the two Navratris. Akbar Shah, his successor, continued his patronage and so did the latter's son, Zafar. After that it was British Raj.

Zealous participation

The Navratras seem to have acquired more zealous participation in recent years. Earlier people used to worship at the ancient temples, but now because of the population explosion they prefer to worship in their own localities and feed not only the devotees but also passers-by in accordance with Puranic traditions.At the bhandaras, which are actually community feeding occasions, the piety, zeal and devotion of those preparing the langar makes the food taste better or so it seems. Surprisingly enough, hardly any cases of food poisoning are reported.

The Chhattarpur mela held during the Navratras in Delhi is famous for its langar and people stand in long queues to taste the food. The temple at Chhattarpur now boasts of a golden idol of the Devi. But there is another temple, a little distance away, which is much older and, according to some, marks the site of the mandir that existed in the pre-Sultanate days.

The Kalkaji mandir, near Okhla station, is believed to have been built in pre-historic times though the oldest portions of the present building were constructed between 1764 and 1771. Besides the Navratra Mahotsav, a fair is held there every Tuesday in honour of the goddess Kali. In Jhandewalan are many temples, including an ancient one of the Devi, which draws big crowd during the Navratras. One afternoon 60,000 people came for darshan, of whom 12,000 at the bandara.

Hanuman Mandir, near Connaught Place, also draws big crowds on Tuesdays and Saturdays, more so during the Navratras. Navratra days are a godsend for halwais, fruit sellers and grocers. Rock Salt, commonly known as Lahori Namak, is in great demand. The paradox is that it mostly comes from Pakistan where Navratras are not observed.

Devi in dream

In Subhas Nagar, the Arya Samaj mandir is the focus of attention as much as the Santosh Mata Temple in Harinagar which, though not very old, was built by Shamsher Bahadur Saxena after the Devi appeared to him in a dream. First started in a little room, it is now a huge building with queues sometimes more than a mile long.

In Chandni Chowk are some of the finest temples in the Capital, including the Gauri Shankar mandir and Duaji-ka mandir, which also draw huge crowds. Duaji-ka mandir is a nondescript building, which looks like an ordinary house from outside. But it is the interior that holds the attraction.

Situated on Esplanade Road, it is the focal point for most Hindu religious processions as they start and end at it. But not during the Navratras.

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