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Sanadige serves choices from the cuisines of the entire west coast
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SUMPTUOUS SPREAD Sanadige exudes an air of unadorned substance from the moment you walk in PHOTO: MURALI KUMAR K.
One of the most tiring aspects about the coastal cuisine offered in the city is that it is all so specialised. It is a pity that there are hardly any destinations that offer a mixture of these cuisines because they often blend so well with each other. Which is why Goldfinch Hotel's new restaurant Sanadige is such a heartening presence.
Named after the ceremonial lamp used in Mangalorean celebrations, Sanadige gives off an air of unadorned substance from the moment you walk in. The decor could have easily been overdone, but is instead staid and simple with just a hint of tradition in the form of rustic wooden pillars and hanging lamps. The waiters are all dressed in dhotis and wear a quaint cap made of the wood of the betel nut tree. And the cuisine is an eclectic but not too exotic mix of Maharashtrian, Goan, Mangalorean and Keralite food. And it is this uniquely different mix that works best for Sanadige.
The meal begins with a welcome drink that knocks the conventional sweet lime sodas and iced teas right out of the ballpark. One couldn't ask for a better range than this — the sharp and spicy kokum kadi, the creamier solanchi kadi flavoured with coconut milk, the tangy and sweet ambyache panhe made of raw mangoes, the more basic masala moor and majjige. For the starters, there is so much to choose from, especially for non-vegetarians.
Among the Malwani dishes, the theeka prawns fry is an excellent choice that looks fiery but is wonderfully palatable with just a dash of spice that leaves your taste buds begging for more. If you're looking for something more exotic, the restaurant always has a fresh supply of delicious crab. One bite of the Keralite crab pepper fry or the sukha crab kudla style, and you're hooked for life. But if seafood isn't your thing, there is a range of meat starters, of which the chicken sukha, flavoured with dry coconut masala that provides a tantalising crispness to the meat, will have one obsessing over it for days.
For the vegetarians, the kappa fry, with very little oil and spice, instantly brings back memories of mother's cooking, particularly for the homesick Keralite. Or you could try the Mangalorean gobi fry, which puts all the gobi manchurians, masalas and 65s to shame with its tangy taste and crunchy feel. The kaju kothimbir vadi — a light, airy snack with a strong mustard taste — is also great.
The main course serves up another great array of seafood and meats. The Goan pomfret curry and the prawns pepper stew cannot be missed and neither can the prawns thiyal. The kudla options include bangda, anjal, prawns, crabs and lobster all cooked in pullimunchi, curry or masala gravies. The mussels xacuti, cooked in a dry coconut masala is also worth a try.
For meat fans, chicken vindaloo is the way to go if your mouth can withstand the heat of Mount Vesuvius. The nati kori kari is a much better choice. More salty than spicy, it leaves a pleasant tang on your tongue long after the meat is all gone.
All of these go well with the wide choice of breads and rice available. You could try out the soft sannas, the wispy neer dosa, the substantial Kerala and Mangalorean appam or the coconutty pundi.
Round off the meal with the over-sweet kashi halwa, ragi or rice manni, gajar halwa, or adapradhaman (both milk and coconut milk avatars) besides much more.
Sanadige in Goldfinch Hotel is located at 32/3, Crescent Road, High Grounds, Off Race Course Road. Contact them on 41291300.
RAKESH MEHAR
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