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Line of friendship

For those witnessing the ceremonial `Change of Guard' at Wagah, it was an emotionally charged moment

IMPRESSIVE CEREMONY At the Wagah border

"A terrible surgery was done to the Indian subcontinent, which cost a million lives and left a crude and horrible scar... "

We were on our way to see this `scar', which is still raw after 59 years and is visible in the form of an electric fence that separates India and Pakistan at the Wagah border.

An hour's drive from Amritsar brought us to Wagah. You have to get off at a particular point and walk the short distance to the Aman Sethu, where a ceremonial `Change of Guard' happens every evening. There were hordes of people walking with me. Each step I took brought back flashes of sepia-toned images to my mind — man and animal crossing this very point a few decades ago, their hearts weak and their futures bleak. By the fence, there is a corner stone with India written on one side and Pakistan on the other. Indian soldiers mounted on horses guard this side of the fence and Pakistani soldiers, in their distinct uniform, the other. Standing at this point, it is hard to believe that a simple fence can separate people and cultures and breed hatred and jealousy.

You reach the gates and try to find a seat in a large gallery from where you can observe the ceremony. We were lucky, as that day, a group of bhangra dancers, also on a visit, decided to entertain the crowd until the ceremony began. The beat of the drums, their energetic movements and colourful costumes sent the crowds into a tizzy.

As the drumbeats grew louder, the audience joined in, banging on their seats and swaying to the rhythm.

From the higher rows in the gallery, it is possible to get a peek at the happenings on the Pakistan side. Unlike here, there are separate galleries for men and women. As the time for the ceremony approached, a compere from the Border Security Force took over and his speech truly whipped up emotions. To the accompaniment of bugles, heavy drum beats and applause, the first of the guards appeared and marched in such long strides that sent the crowds into chants of "Bharat Mata Ki Jai." Similar action happened on the other side of the gate and "Pakistan Zindabad" rent the air. Each time a guard came out and did his act, it was greeted by thunderous applause and everyone commented on the height of the soldiers who towered at over 6 feet 4 inches. The gates dramatically opened and the new set of guards took charge.

The sun was setting and with a crimson sky as backdrop, the Indian and Pakistani flags were lowered and carried back with all pomp and pageantry. It truly was a hair-raising moment and somewhere along the way, my eyes had filled with tears and my throat was hoarse with all the screaming.

With the flags safely deposited, the crowds on both sides slowly started moving away. I walked a few paces, stopped and turned for a last glimpse. Against the setting sun, I caught the silhouette of the solitary soldier standing guard... and with that image deeply etched in my mind, I moved on.

LAKSHMI RAVICHANDER

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