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Chhotu wins the day

At Chhotu di Hatti, Rahul Verma learns there is no point in putting ideology to taste

SOFT AND SPICY Chottu di hatti in West Delhi offers choley that are quite different from the Bengal gram that we get elsewhere Photo: Shiv Kumar Pushpakar

Frankly, the name Chhotu doesn't really inspire confidence. But over the years I have learnt not to scoff at - well, at least not openly - people's subjective takes on food. Which is why when my friend, Raj, told us about a small chholey-bhaturey shop in Patel Nagar called Chhotu di Hatti, I was sceptical, but not entirely dismissive.

We were all sitting and discussing food. On the agenda that day was chholey-bhaturey. The house was unanimous on one point - the stuff that passes off as chholey-bhaturey in most parts of New Delhi is a hoax on the people. Quite a few of the speakers at this informal discussion were of the view that Chacha's chholey-bhaturey, in Kamala Nagar, were the best in town. Some thought you couldn't beat Gyan at Sadar Bazar, while a few rooted for Sitaram of Paharganj. But Raj demurred. He cleared his throat and spoke up for Chhotu di Hatti - a place none of us had heard of.

So one fine afternoon, when the sun was shining bright, Raj took me to Chhotu di Hatti. It is easy to locate this shop. Go past the Patel Nagar Metro station, and after Aggarwal Sweets, turn right. You will hit Kalinga Chowk, and that's where you'll find Chhotu.

Different gram

It's a small place - barely big enough to seat some eight or 10 people. We found a place for ourselves and asked for two plates of chholey-bhaturey. The food came. The first impression was promising. The chholey-bhaturey smelt great. There were two piping hot bhatureys and a bowl of chholey. There was a carrot pickle on the side, tart green chutney and rings of onion. But what interested me the most was that the chholey at Chhotu's was different from the ordinary Bengal gram that you get elsewhere. His chholey was the small and black variety - the kind that is delicious when cooked well.

Just right

I still remember my first mouthful of Chhotu's chholey-bhaturey. The chholey had been boiled just right, and the spices were in the right proportion. It wasn't too spicy or hot, nor bland as some boiled chholey - like the ones sold in brass handis - tend to be. This was hot and spicy, but soft on the tongue and easy to digest.

A plate of chholey-bhaturey comes for Rs.18. Chhotu di Hatti also sells chholey-chawal, again for Rs.18 a plate. There are half plates for small eaters, too - all yours for 10 rupees.

I must admit I started treating Raj's views on food with renewed respect after that. Having spent years as my apprentice, the man has clearly learnt a few things. Now, I feel he has firmly established himself as a foodie who knows what he is talking about. I felt quite sentimental - it was almost like a mama bird seeing her fledgling wing out on its own.

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