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Where leopards roam

The jungle camp at Vallakadavu promises to be a perfect getaway, reports K. BALAKRISHNAN

BURNING BRIGHT A leopard at the Vallakadavu forest PHOTO: K. BALAKRISHNAN

Six kilometres from Vandiperiyar, on the Kottayam-Thekkady route, is Vallakadavu. The Forest Department has an outpost here and the department has now set up a fine jungle camp. We arrived at the campsite at around 5.30 p.m.

Situated on the banks of the Periyar, and surrounded by deep elephant trenches on all sides, the campsite commands a stunning view of mountains and forests.

The accommodation is provided in tents and there are facilities like a covered dining area, a thatched meeting area with provisions for campfire, excellent toilet and washrooms. The food served is basic but wholesome.

Forest officials and guides from the local Eco-Development Council provide the logistic support.

Spotting the leopards

On arrival, the guides recommended that we take a drive along the road bordering the camp. This road is on the way to Sabarimala from Vandiperiyar. We must have driven hardly two kilometres down the road when we suddenly fell silent. Right in the middle of the road we saw a leopard stalking a langur. The leopard did not seem overly concerned about us and moved away into the forest in a very leisurely manner.

Luck seemed to be with us that evening for a short distance down the road we spotted two more leopards. We returned to camp after this exhilarating experience. Night in the jungle camp is a memorable experience. You could hear the Sambar deer all around, and the call of two Night Jars echoing through the mountains.

Come first light and the forest woke up to a virtual orchestra of birds. Racket-tailed Drongos, Indian Tree Pies, the booming call of the Indian Hornbill, Scarlet Minuets, Jungle Fowl, and birds too numerous to classify were heard all around the campsite.

Rafting down the Periyar

Piping hot and strong black coffee took the chill away and then it was time for us to do some bamboo rafting down the Periyar. Rowing through we sighted two barking deer and some jungle fowl and also a Sambar. The absolute silence, often broken by sounds of birds and animals, makes this rafting experience truly magical.

It was then back to the camp. After ablutions and breakfast we set out on a trek to Mullaperiyar.

For a good part of the trek there were evident signs of a single elephant moving ahead of us. But, unfortunately we never saw it.

However, we saw a bison spoor, a barking deer, a herd of Sambar and a mongoose. The only problem we encountered was the leeches, found in huge numbers along the shores of the river.

The campsite is unique in the experiences on offer. The personnel are friendly and helpful. Security at the campsite is good and the guides are very safety conscious and knowledgeable. Another significant aspect is that the camp is eco-friendly and maintained to highest standards of hygiene and cleanliness.

The solar powered geysers and lamps add to the eco friendly message.

How to get there

To get to the Vallakadavu Jungle Camp drive down to Vandiperiyar, which is 138 kilometres by road from Kochi. The campsite is located a further six kilometres on the Sabarimala route. For details contact the Eco Tourism Officer of the Forest Department at Thekkady

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