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The walls that never fell
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The Mughals never managed to capture Kumbalgarh...
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It is still known as the unconquerable, and historians will attest this fact. Udaipur, the city of lakes with its pretty palaces and idyllic lake havelis, must have been eyed by many a conqueror. But it never fell. Akbar, the mightiest of the Mughals, tried all means - from martial warfare to forging a matrimonial alliance. But he never did get Mewar.
Kumbalgarh was the fortress which guarded Mewar and its city of Udaipur. The old captial of Mewar was Chittor, and because it was in the plains, it wasn't too easy to defend. This led to its being sacked thrice and the most famous battle of Chittor remains the one between Maharana Ratan Singh and Ala-ud-din Khilji. Khilji was enamoured by Padmini Devi of Chittor and this led to war, which ended with the Rajputs fighting to the death and the ladies committing mass suicide.
In 1557, Uday Singh realized that Chittor was not a smart choice for a capital and started establishing Udaipur as capital. While Udaipur was under development, he resided at Kumbalgarh, leaving Chittor in the charge of two generals. Akbar promptly attacked, but found an abandoned capital. He then shifted his gaze to Kumbalgarh and Udaipur, but Uday Singh has chosen his location wisely and the narrow gorges and steep ravines made it impossible for the Mughal army to use all their strength and it was at the famous battle of Haldighati between Rana Pratap of Mewar and Raja Mansingh, commanding the Mughal Army that Mewar attained its unconquerable status. Haldighati is a mere 13 km diversion on the Udaipur - Kumbalgarh road and worth visiting.
For years after that, the Mughal armies kept chasing Rana Pratap, who led them on a merry dance all around Mewar, always keeping them away from Udaipur. It was the Rana's one dream to recapture Chittor, but one he couldn't realize.
Jehangir made truce with Mewar, in which Chittor was returned under the terms that it wouldn't be fortified and the Rana's son would visit the durbar in Delhi. This is where the young prince Karan Singh became friends with Prince Khurram. Aurangzeb believed in total subjugation and tried once again to bring Mewar to heel. And though his army, under Shabat Khan, pounded Kumbalgarh with their French cannons, the mighty fort with its massive wall did not fall.
Today you can see all that - the lakes and the beautiful palaces built in a city that was confident it couldn't be captured, the imposing location of Kumbalgarh with its sturdy walls, which made it impossible to breach.
The drive to Kumbalgarh from Udaipur is fascinating too. We drove through rural Rajasthan, passing along quaint villages that still have the ancient Persian wheel system of irrigation still in place. Being a country road, it is immensely pretty with the rugged scenery of the Aravallis. Kumbalgarh is one of Rajasthan's most understated forts; imposing and huge, this was the guardian of Mewar and the birthplace of Rana Pratap. The fort is also surrounded by a 50 km long wall, wide enough to fit two trucks side by side! Though it can be seen in a day, we hung around for two days taking in its quiet and peaceful environs and it was time well spent.
In Kumbalgarh stay at The Aodhi, Distt Rajsamand, PO Kelwara 313 325. Tel: 02954 242341 - 46 Email crs@udaipur.hrh.com This place looks as if it is carved into the hillside, the rooms have relaxing sit-out areas. There are barbeques arranged by the poolside and the whole complex itself is tranquil for an after-dinner walk.
RISHAD SAAM MEHTA
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