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An alpine summer

You can still feel Mozart's presence in the picturesque land called Salzburg , says Uttara Asthana

FOR YOUR EYES AND EARS A cyclist passes an advertising column with a poster showing a portrait of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart in front of the fortress in Salzburg.

This summer, I reached Salzburg on a gliding train. Outside the railway station itself, Salzburg's most dominating structure, a hilltop castle called Festung Hohensalzburg, caught my eye. It is built atop the steep Monchberg mountain.

Early next morning, we made a beeline for this beckoning, imposing and white fortress. It sure makes a pretty picture by sprawling over the whole of the hillock... well, not so pretty is its Torture Tower. This tower is perhaps the only aberration in the beauty and the wonderful mood Salzburg evokes. Thankfully, the museums inside the castle house more pleasant artefacts, musical instruments and oh yes! marionettes, their distinctive puppet craft. Within the fortification is the unforgettable statue of a bull. Legend goes that during a war, the castle dwellers kept painting the only bull they had in a different colour each day. So the attackers thought that Salzburgers were richly stacked in supplies and they left. Then the people washed this bull in the Salzach river! The river runs diagonally across the town dividing northern, modern, multi-storied Salzburg from the more beautiful, southern old town where we were standing. From this high vantage point you can only gasp at the panoramic view before you. The greenery gets thicker as the town of Salzburg thins out in all directions, undulating into faraway peaks that hold promise.

Life-size chessboard

Later, we took our funicular back to the plains to Festungasse. Down a few steps from it, is a sprawling square, Kapitelplatz. Souvenir stalls, live musicians, open-air restaurants, a life-size chessboard — all give a carnival-like feel to it. You can simply walk into the game of chess (literally), play, and walk out of the checkered floor. Only when you down beer and the typical chocolate marzipan candy ball called Mozart Kugel (what a toothsome experience!) do you get the real essence of this Austrian hill station. Now there are lots of variations in the candy balls, but earlier there was a traditional recipe to make them. The only reminders of time passing by, in this infectious laziness, are the Black Forest cuckoo clocks displayed in the memorabilia sheds around. The stalls also ooze with a flavour of the Alps with the typical cow bells, marionettes, Austrian hats, and mugs displaying Salzburg's unique skyline.

Further north is Domplatz where the famous green roofed Dom (or cathedral) stands. The four appealing statues flanking three high, curved entrances make it so poetically attractive. The horse carriages parked in front and their fancily uniformed riders give nostalgic air to the entire square. At the far end of the square, a statue was under repair; therefore it was plastered from public view. Yet they had managed to put a large photograph of the real statue of Mother Mary in front of the covered one. More artistry is visible at Residenzplatz, just ahead. It has an extraordinary Baroque fountain, comprising horses and tiers of musclemen. This square is called the `Residenz'platz because the ruling Archbishops had moved residence from the hill to the palace adjacent to it. Young Amadeus Mozart used to perform in this grandiose palace, for visiting dignitaries. In fact, there is a bit of Mozart in almost every street and corner of Salzburg. Exclusive Mozart tours take you there.

However, the beautiful St. Peter's cemetery, where his sister is buried, prohibits guided tours. The quietude here is in sharp contrast to the touristy activities taking place just outside in the three Platz. This is one graveyard that is scenic and elegant. Flowering plants and wrought iron crosses, gates and grilles give it a quaint look and a deep sense of longing. If you want to go to a scarier, more mournful resting place you just need to climb up the catacombs carved inside the Monchsberg mountain. It forms one boundary of St. Peter's cemetery. Imagine a dimly lit tunnel leading to dingy, lonely chapels.

The popular dog sled race in progress

We then had a dekko at Mozart's statue at Mozartplatz, and then strolled on to the most enthralling shopping district, Getreidegasse. The mountain castle, forming the backdrop, gives the pedestrians only and narrow passageways an all the more old world charm. Rows of wrought iron guild signs at the facades of shops add that touch of romance.

The merchandise in these shops is as enticing — the most fashionable brands, antiques, jewellery, perfumes and delicatessen. Worry not; there is a stylishly hung McDonald's logo too (for backpackers like us). After dinner we strolled around Getreidegasse more. Cobbled courtyards with Mozart cut-outs standing here and there and souvenir stalls in the centre, covered with huge, striped umbrellas make this classy address all the more picturesque. We headed for our hotel just as the artistically crafted street lamps glowed.

Next day, on my way to Mirabell Gardens, across river Salzach, I noticed a slender figurine with a bicycle, indicating a separate cycle path. Even the statues at the Mirabell gardens are so mythical - unicorns, winged horses and humorous dwarfs. By spewing humming water, they make this sun bathed expanse so musical, so lyrically alive. Those like the dwarves that don't play with water stand gracefully behind rows of vibrantly coloured, well tended flowerbeds. Picnicking on the fountain-dotted greens of Mirabell Palace — what else do you need to holiday?

Just two days of browsing the small Salzburg soothed me no end. I need to explore the numerous operas and the musical nightlife sometime later to feel blissful again. After all, the town reverberates with the sound of music.

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