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Discovering gems in Jammu
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Jammu holds a range of tourist options
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THE CHARM PERSISTS The Chholey Bhaturey Corner hasn't lost out on quality across generations PHOTO: V.V. KRISHNAN
If you thought a trip to Jammu meant relief from the cauldron that is Delhi, you might be disappointed. Jammu is just as hot, its buildings quaintly designed to let in plenty of sun. But if you leave all that aside, there is every chance of a nice getaway from the mundane. Jammu has different faces that regale a range of tourists, from the luxury traveller to the hardened backpacker, the moody landscape artist to the social scientist.
People remember Jammu as an important junction enroute to Vaishno Devi. But there are other draws, little and big, right in the heart of Jammu to while away a day or two. The Raghunath temple, built and maintained by generations of Jammu's royal family, is one. Once through the elaborate security measures, there is relative peace inside. Among its many shrines is `Karneshwar' Shiva, a transparent Shivaling made of glass brought to India from Germany by Dr. Karan Singh, son of Maharaja Hari Singh.
The market outside teems. Material for salwar suits, each for Rs.125, is hawked at every step. Carpets spill invitingly over counters. Rather hot weather for all these woollens and floor coverings, but what is a world without stereotypes? In case the heat and crowds find you with clenched jaws, here is a denture shop right under the sky. "New teeth fitted and old ones repaired here," declares the Hindi sign. Demand seems to be slack. The `dental mechanic' is engrossed in a newspaper. But rows of toothy gums, grinning up at passers-by, keep guard.
Walnuts by the sackful, dried apricots and apples, and mango jelly stretch out in proud displays. Also, there are large quantities of what look like tiny beige marbles. "This is called garlic," explains the shopkeeper. "Take one or two in the morning and one or two in the evening, and get rid of joint pains." Is it to be swallowed whole, like a tablet, or crushed? The gentleman finds our curiosity an assault on the dignity of this regional speciality. "You ask too many questions," he complains.
Hari Niwas Palace
Everything in the area seems to be named after a member of the royal family. Relics of monarchy always remain. But Maharaj Kumar Ajatshatru Singh — grandson of Maharaja Hari Singh — and his wife Kumarani Ritu Singh are using their special place in people's heart to rejuvenate Jammu's Dogri culture and distinguish it in the public perception from the better-known Kashmiri traditions.
Besides converting the former residence of Maharaja Hari Singh into a heritage hotel, spa and museum complex, they are all set to revive Dogri cuisine, crafts, music traditions and of course the numerous temples of the area. The Hari Niwas Palace is a 19th Century structure with 40 luxurious rooms, including Maharaja, Rajkumari and Rajmata suites. The workforce is drawn from the original staff of the royal family, but their `Kumarani' is making sure they get modern corporate training. While the restaurant serves western and Chinese fare, a unique Dogri menu is one of the highlights.
The Amar Vilas Museum and Library is an older building, constructed by Hari Singh's father Maharaja Amar Singh. It houses a collection of paintings by modern Indian masters and rare books, besides interesting photographs of the royals and the Rajmata's chamber, frozen in time like a page out of Dickens.
We decide to make a dash to see the Bahu Fort, over 3000 years old, built by Raja Bahulochan. Jammu residents are sceptical that we will ever make it back in time to catch our flight to Delhi. But what is five kilometres to a hardened Delhiite? We are soon safely within the fort walls, on the rocky hillside that overlooks a terrace garden and Jammu city. A round of the Bahu Devi temple within the fort, and it's back down to the city, and on to the airport. Soon the markets and temples, the palace and the fort, remain only in the fragrance of memories. And not even the garlic, safely stashed in the suitcase, can interfere with those.
ANJANA RAJAN
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