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No generic tastes here

Umerkot serves up the best from the Mughal reign

PHOTO: MURALI KUMAR K.

TRUE FUSION The cuisine at Umerkot features foreign tastes created from local ingredients

In a city flooded by cheap North Indian hotels that fail to think past butter chicken, paneer tikka masala and dal fry, it is always refreshing to find a restaurant that actually understands Indian food for what it is — a wonderful indicator of our cultural idiosyncrasies.

Umerkot, located on the Koramangala 80 Foot Road, specialises in cuisine from the musafirkhanas patronised by Emperor Akbar — recipes brought here by the Mughal rulers, and imbibed and customised by the local population of the Delhi, Avadh, Lucknow and Hyderabadi gharanas. Thus, the same aloo, paneer, chicken and mutton are given an infusion of the exotic that places them in a different plane than most other North Indian tastes.

On the kebab trail

As is expected with cuisine of Mughlai origin, kebabs dominate the menu. What is surprising, though, is the range of tastes the kebabs encompass. Among the vegetarian kebabs, the most interesting choice was easily the karari bhindi chaat. Shredded lady's finger fried to crisp in a delightful mix of flavours forms one of the best snacks I've tasted in a long time. And with the accompanying tomato chutney thrown in, what one is initially prompted to call a pakoda becomes something else quite feisty and impudent.

But if you're tastes run in more sober directions, the soye ki sheekh or the rajme ka gilawat are better suited. The former has a smoky flavour with an infusion of soya and dill leaves, while the later is made of minced red kidney beans and has a crusty exterior that crumbles to reveal a smooth, dough-like core.

Among the non-vegetarian kebabs, one should try out the kadak reshmi kebab — a culinary Christmas with a wonderful filling of melted cheese hidden under a crispy, batter-fried exterior. For a slightly tangier feel, go for either the murgh ki chaanp with lemon and royal cumin or the gosht chaanp narangi, which has an innovative marinade of fresh oranges.

But don't get carried away by the kebabs. The main course deserves all the attention you give it. The gosht nalli Afghani, in particular, means business. Cooked in a fairly strait-laced gravy spiced with saffron, the dish serves three lamb shanks that are a meal on their own. Well-stewed in its own juices, the nalli piece has a unique taste that no other mutton piece can replicate.

Counterpoint

The most memorable among the chicken gravies is the murg kali miri, a wonderful antithesis to the nalli Afghani — all fun and frolic with a gravy of onion and fresh black pepper. For the vegetarian, feeling like a king comes easy with the paneer dum mussallam, a rich but not heavy gravy of brown onions and poppy seeds. Or you could try the mirchi ka khatto, a Rajasthani kadhi with yellow pepper, a curdy interplay of hot and sour tastes.

All of these gravies are excellently accompanied by a delicious array of rotis such as the keema kulcha, the slightly sweet gilafi kulcha or the layered khurmi naan. There's also a nice selection of rice dishes including subz ki tehri, steamed basmati and murg zafrani biryani.

One would be excused for skipping dessert after this smorgasboard, but that would be such a waste. After all, the tandoori ananas made of cooked-caramelised pineapple is not to be missed, and neither is the homemade kulfi.

Umerkot can be contacted on 25500426/41522223/4/5/6.

Ambience: Understated
Service: Prompt and informed
Speciality: Kebabs
Wallet Factor: Rs. 700 for two

RAKESH MEHAR

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