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Old favourites
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Gimmickry takes a backseat at Stadium
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FUSS FREE FOOD At Stadium PHOTO: VINO JOHN
In spite of the overtly cheerful `Stadium' signposts that holler to passers by from outside the restaurant, the insides are far from memorable. This is the average Joe of restaurants: the usual staid décor, perpetually perplexed waiters and a menu revelling in clichés and `chicken lollipops.'
But, strangely enough, that's precisely its strongest point. Since the Stadium doesn't even attempt to be fashionable, snooty or even innovative, it serves up all the old favourites, all made in the good old fashioned way: reshmi kebabs, butter naans and the obligatory smattering of deep fried spicy Chinese.
And every once in a while, when the silver and linen route gets wearisome, it's nice to head to a restaurant like this, where gimmickry takes a backseat and chefs confidently churn out tasty and comfortingly unstylish food.
The tangri kebabs here, for instance, are satisfyingly solid, even though they come accompanied by an alarmingly bright mint chutney. The chicken Manchurian is less memorable, but I must admit we were warned by the disconcertingly honest waiter who whispered that their "Chef is North Indian, so eat North Indian," before he mysteriously disappeared into the kitchen, never to be seen again.
In defence of the "North Indian Chef," he does turn out the most delicious naans. The Stadium Special naan, generously showered with creamy paneer shavings, was a perfect balance between crusty and fluffy. It went beautifully with his vegetarian kofta, spiked with cashewnuts, well browned and soaked in a spicy rich gravy.
A meal for two should come to about Rs. 300 here. The Stadium is at Hotel Nest Inn, Gandhi Irwin Road, Egmore. Call 28192919 for more details.
SHONALI MUTHALALY
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