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Paris calling again

Big stages have always been Ritu Beri's bastion. This time it's Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. As the designer diva flies off for a hectic summer, she shares her

BERI WELL! Ritu Beri wants to dress up Madonna and Rekha Photo: SHANKAR CHAKRAVARTY

She has been the face of India in the Makkah of fashion. Come July 5 and Ritu Beri is going to attest her reputation by participating in the Paris Haute Couture Week. Giving final touches to her 40 pieces to be displayed at the Week, Ritu says she is taking along the spirit of India. Blending the East with the West has been the fashion mantra in the subcontinent for long, but Ritu holds it is easier said than done. "I am presenting a global collection which is influenced by the Egyptian, Moroccan and of course Indian traditions. The highlight would be interpretation of bandhini - my strength - on the Western silhouette." Ritu says she has used featherweight fabrics like organza, tulle, lace and crochet to bring out "simple elegance" to her "technically complex" silhouettes.

As for the mood, Ritu, who has a fairly long experience of working in Paris by now, maintains the West is falling in loving with the Indian pomp and show and the riot of colours that India has to offer. "Indian designers should make use of the trend. You can't entice them with black, white and beige. Anyway, after 9/11 they need something to cheer up and I believe Indian designer clothes could be one option."

Accentuating the mood at Lido-de-Paris would be live elephants, lotus fountains with Konark temple providing the backdrop. An expensive affair, Ritu has found support from Air India and Audemars Piguet, the Swiss watch company, which has named her as its "Woman of the World". But that's not all for this summer. Before the Paris Week, Ritu shares she has been invited by French Polo Club to showcase her collection on the occasion of Paris Open Cup. "Then on June 27, I would be presenting the collection at Albert Hall, London." Also her astonishingly expensive autobiography "Firefly" would be on sale at the Week. "I like to do things big," she says. Ironically, when she was with Scherrer, the Paris-based fashion house, she headed their ready-to-wear department. "Yes, but even at that time I kept my couture sensibilities alive by doing individual shows," she counters.

Right stand?

Somebody who stayed away from the Week-business where the focus is on ready-to-wear all along, isn't it time to feel vindicated when both FDCI and Lakme are coming up with their couture weeks? "It is for the industry experts to decide. I only presented a finale collection at one of the weeks. (She never put up a stall). Weeks are meant for those who are not a brand in the market. I was always one so I didn't need it. It's good for the Sabyasachis. Then it is the couture, which is used for image building and sustaining it. Indeed, the business comes from prêt but on the basis of the image built around couture," she states her point. As for the corporate support, Ritu calls the industry is going through the horse and cart confusion. "Nobody knows which one to put first. The day designers start working as exporters they cease to be one."

However, her decision put almost the entire fashion fraternity and this includes biggies like Ritu Kumar and Tarun Tahiliani on one side and Ritu Beri on the other. "I don't mind it. May be they don't like me because I don't party. Anyway do you think they are friends with each other? I believe each one is chugging along on his own."

She agrees this is impeding the growth of the industry as an organised sector. "I feel we all are moving from collection to collection." Her critics, this largely includes big names from the fashion world, have all along accused her of using her face, her connections and PR battery to rise the fashion ladder. Ritu says it no longer irks her. "It is the reality of life that success comes with barbs. You can fool once, not every time. I have performed consistently for the world to take note of me."

Admittedly a reclusive person in personal life, Ritu says she needs to take a break. "Even after marriage I didn't go for a long break." One of the things on her vacation agenda is exploring the countryside all over again. "For some time my research team is doing it. Now I want to do it myself."

ANUJ KUMAR

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