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The magic of saffron

Saffron has many advantages, from culinary to therapeutic. Read on to know more about the rich man's turmeric!

PHOTO: NISSAR AHMAD

SPICE TALK The high cost of saffron is due to the work that goes into producing a small amount Photo: Nissar Ahmad

Say it with saffron. No, we are not promoting any political ideology at the dining table but talking of love, strength and warmth. For the home-birds who usually grow on a healthy diet of saffron, and its poor cousin, turmeric, it may be taken for granted. However, recently while talking to some FOEs (frequent outside eaters), I have realised the increasing demand for exclusive ingredients.

The more exclusive ingredients in the dish, the more support it gathers from the clients. Of course, that is the reason restaurants highlight those ingredients in their menu. There are a few food ingredients that always carry a sense of exclusivity. They add to the quality of the food all right, but equally importantly, they give the guest a sense of royalty.

I have yet to see a single restaurant highlighting salt as an ingredient though it is one of the most essential components of food. But salt is not exclusive. So what is "exclusive" when we talk of food ingredients? Is it the price tag? Or is it the rare availability of the ingredient? Or is it just the traditional perception? Or is it simply the extraordinary quality of the ingredient that puts it in an exclusive category? Well, if you take my word then it is a combination of all these.

Exclusive saffron

Such is the case with saffron too. Very exclusive! A simple dish can be turned into something very desirable and mouth watering, courtesy saffron. Take your pick: Plain rice or saffron rice? Rasmalai or kesari rasmali? Just imagine plain milk or kesari milk?

Besides, remember that saffron is considered so exclusive it is part of the offerings to gods in many religions. Cleopatra wrote a whole book on saffron for its cosmetic and aphrodisiac properties. In ancient Greece, saffron was used as a spice for its aroma, as a dye and also for medicinal purposes. Azafran is Spanish for saffron. Croci is the Greek name for saffron, in Farsi or Persian, it is Za'fran, Za'faran (Zargol), Greeks call it Krokos, Safrani, Zafora and in Hindi, it is Kesar.

Saffron is without a doubt the most expensive spice in the world. Its high cost is due to the work that goes into producing a small amount of the spice. Each saffron flower produces three red stigma or strands.

The saffron flower has to be picked before or at the break of dawn, so that the saffron strands are not overexposed to the sun's light. Once the flower is picked, the three red strands must be plucked from each flower. Then dried for storage. All by hand. To produce a gram of the spice, 150 to 200 flowers must be picked.

The colour of the saffron is a strong indication of the saffron's flavour. Colour is due to the degradation or the breakdown of carotenoids, such as crocin and crocetin. Saffron's aroma is determined by the release of safranal. Safranal is a volatile liquid oil, which is yellow in colour and comprises up to 70 per cent of the volatile components of saffron.

Saffron features largely in Arab cuisine. It is grown mainly in Iran. Morocco and Turkey are also producers of saffron. Back home, saffron is produced mainly in Kashmir.

Cooking with saffron requires a little preparation. When in doubt follow the recipe. Though most will suggest that the saffron strands should be allowed to be dipped in water for a minimum of 20 minutes or even up to 12 hours in some cases.

Saffron is also frequently added directly to the meal, while cooking, leaving out the soaking process. Soaking saffron ensures the dried product will sufficiently release all its flavour and aroma into the dish. Saffron strands will continue to release their flavour and colour for up to 24 hours after the soaking or cooking process starts. Some believe that slightly less saffron is needed when it is soaked for an extended period.

Care must be taken not to add too much saffron to the meal as it will turn from a pleasant flavour to a bitter one.

Aquila saffron continues to be sought after by the most demanding gourmets worldwide. Its characteristics are the length of its strands, the high content of safranal (which gives it its special aroma), its strong colouring effect and larger bulbs.

But all the knowledge about saffron is wasted if it is not used. So here is your opportunity to use it in at least one dish:

Kesari dahi ke

meethey golgappe

This dish is ideal for the summer season, at the same time nutritious and fun to make.

Ingredients

8 Atta or sooji ke golgappe

2 cups cold hung curd

1 gm saffron

Icing sugar or low calorie powdered sugar to taste

4 tbsp fresh pomegranate seeds

1 tbsp chopped pistachios

1 tbsp sliced almonds

Method

Take the curd (hung for 24 hours) and mix in the sugar, making sure not to over-beat it but just mix to a smooth texture.

Take one tablespoon water and soak in the saffron for 20 minutes and then pass it through a fine mesh, ensuring that all saffron is passed through, resulting in the thick smooth paste.

Mix it with the curd and fill it in a piping bag, refrigerate for an hour.

Take golgappas and make a hole on top using your thumb. Half fill it with washed and water-drained fresh pomegranate seeds.

Top each golgappa with the curd through piping bag in a decorative way.

Top each golgappa with sliced almond and chopped pista. Serve cold immediately.

RAKESH KUMAR

(The author, a Limca Book of Records title holder, is an Executive Chef with Crowne Plaza.) He can be emailed at chefrk@crowneplazadelhi.com)

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