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Fulfilling, as ever

RAHUL VERMA stops by at Paharganj's popular Radhey Shyam to have a bite of chholey-bhaturey

Illustration: Tony Smith

If you think I am going gaga about Paharaganj, there is good reason for doing so. Paharganj is like one of those kaleidoscopic pictures - with little images that make a grand vision together. I just love it. You look one side, and see a row of brightly coloured clothes on sale. Now that jholas are back in fashion, you will find all kinds of cloth bags somewhere. There are heaps of fresh vegetables on carts and in shops, and old books elsewhere. You will find one or two excellent bakeries there. And, then, of course, there are food stalls.

An old habit

The Paharganj lane facing the New Delhi Railway Station is one such busy street. You can buy all kinds of things there, and stop by somewhere for a satiating meal. Radhey Shyam's chholey-bhaturey shop is one such place that people have been haunting for years and years. Whenever I am somewhere in the area, I make it a point to eat his chholey-bhaturey. The address is Shop No. 7, Amrit Kaur Market.

I was reminded of Radhey Shyam when my car developed a cough. My mechanic, quite a gourmet himself, got talking about food, and started slobbering when he remembered Radhey Shyam. So I decided I had to go back there, and soon.

There are some people who believe that the best chholey-bhaturey in Paharganj are to be found at Sitaram's. I think Sitaram can't beat Radhey Shyam. And, clearly, I am not in a minority here, for the crowds in front of the two shops will tell you who is more popular.

There is always a happy crowd outside Sitaram's, but the one at Radhey Shyam's is easily three times bigger.

My last visit there, a couple of weeks ago, was a bit like a rainbow - there was some sunlight, and there was a bit of rain. I went there and heard that the elder brother, who wielded a mean karchhi, is no more. He was the one running the place after father Radhey Shyam went to the great sky of chholey-bhaturey makers. But the place is now being ably managed by his other son, Subhash Kumar.

Just as good

And the wonderful thing is that the food is as good as ever. The bhatureys are special, soft and stuffed with paneer. I have always found his chholey better than what you get at Sitaram's because it's less oily.

A plate of chholey-bhaturey comes for Rs.18 - and consists of two warm bhatureys, a bowl of spicy chholey, a small dollop of mango pickle, onions and chutney. You have to stand there and eat his stuff. These days, I find that a lot of people get it packed. I did so, too.

I had a good lunch, burped a bit and then went to sleep.

This, let me assure you, is life.

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