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In the shadow of the spire

Salisbury is steeped in history, but equally strong on contemporary comforts and attractions

SIMPLE YET STRIKING The Salisbury Cathedral

There's no gospel rule that every town must have a landmark, but having one surely helps.

We had driven in on a morning of soft sunshine and what could be called hustle and bustle by local standards. The weather had driven people outdoors, shopping, milling around, tucking into ice creams and coffees. Having found a parking lot near the main street, it was a matter of minutes before we were in the thick of things. The crowd moved in two distinct directions. While locals thronged the boutiques and cafes, tourists like ourselves headed in one direction, and one direction only. Everyone headed for the spire that pierced the skyline with such majesty.

Nestling in the shadow of its famous cathedral, Salisbury is a town steeped in history, but equally strong on contemporary comforts and attractions. Ask the tourists. Five minutes walk through the high street, past fancy shop windows, and we entered the Cathedral's massive grounds through a small gate.

The Cathedral is what the town's all about. Considered the finest Gothic Norman Cathedral in Britain, with the highest spire (123 m), the best preserved Magna Carta (1215), a unique 13th Century frieze of Bible stories (Chapter House), the largest Cloisters and Close in Britain, and Europe's oldest working clock (1386). Boy and girl choristers sing daily services, continuing a tradition of worship of over 775 years.

We filed in, and past row upon row of benches where the faithful came to pray, and ruminate, or just be by themselves. Silent, large and softly lit, the main hall was inviting in a strange sort of way. One goes right up to the pulpit and then turns around to see some of the embellishments of the vast interior.

The Cathedral is open daily. There are tower tours on most days. There is a shop and restaurant on the premises.

For a good initiation, visit the Medieval Hall which features `Discover Salisbury', a 40-minute big screen presentation that is a guide to the town's history and attractions. With the aid of hundreds of images, soundtrack, and lighting effects, one can trace the origins of the town and mark the sites to be visited. Arrive anytime from 11 a.m. The daily presentation can be seen anytime from 11 a.m.

Not following a fixed tour has its advantages, mainly that one can do whatever one wants and go wherever one wants, no questions asked. The Cathedral dwarfs everything in town, but there is a lot else to see.

And a good place to start is the Salisbury & South Wiltshire Museum. Winner of many awards, the Salisbury Museum holds collections of national significance, including Stonehenge, Early Man and Pitt Rivers collections. There are special exhibitions open all year. The museum is open Monday to Saturday, and features a gift shop and coffee shop. It could well be a nobleman's house you're visiting for dinner. But Mompesson House, `The House in the Close', is a little more than that. A National Trust property, and a perfect example of Queen Anne architecture dating from 1701, it contains an important collection of 18th Century drinking glasses and fine period furniture. The premises also feature a tranquil walled garden with garden tearoom.

Welcome to `The Wardrobe'. Situated in Cathedral Close and dating from 1254, `The Wardrobe' now houses the Salisbury Museum of the Royal Gloucestershire, Berkshire and Wiltshire Regiment, and is a real treasure house for military buffs. Landscaped gardens greatly enhance the appeal of this unique museum.

You step back a thousand years in Old Sarum Castle, a site worth visiting, if only to get a sense of history. The massive Iron Age hillfort of Old Sarum was used by the Romans, the Saxons and the Normans before becoming one of the most flourishing settlements in medieval England. Today, this dramatic site contains the ruins of a castle, cathedral and Bishop's Palace.

The town isn't all that small but can be comfortably toured on foot. Allow yourself a couple of hours of walking and you can take in most of the famous sights. And some good shopping. Look out for the Salisbury City Ambassadors who will help you get around and about.

Salisbury is a convenient jump-off point for seeing several places of interest. You can do comfortable short trips and cover places like Wilton, Stonehenge, Amesbury, Warminster, Westbury and Shaftsbury in a single day.

As we drove out of town in the evening, the road enveloped in the shadows of giant oaks and willows, the buildings faded out of sight behind us. But ten minutes and ten miles out of town, one could still see the spire of the Cathedral, standing like a silent sentinel over everything around it, the way it has done for eight centuries. It was one last reminder of Salisbury's most famous structure, simple but telling enough...

Fact file

Salisbury is a couple of hours drive from London. There are coach tours, or one can rent a car and drive there through pretty countryside.

City accommodation comes in the form of several hotels and guest houses. Room tariffs range from £ 40-£ 70.

Eating matters are well sorted out, thanks to dozens of little restaurants in the downtown area, offering everything from conventional Continental food to Indian and Chinese. A meal for two in a standard eatery costs from £ 20-£30.

A guide map of the town is handy and one can walk around and see all the sights. It takes half a day to cover the most notable landmarks.

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