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The magic of saffron

The richly aromatic saffron is the most exclusive spice on earth

PHOTO: NISSAR AHMAD

SUBTLE AND SENSUOUS Saffron's high cost is due to the work that goes into producing and harvesting it

Say it with saffron. No, we are not promoting any political ideology but talking of love, strength and warmth. For the home birds who usually grow on a healthy diet of saffron, and its poor cousin, the turmeric, it may be taken for granted. However, a recent conversation with some FOEs (frequent outside eaters) revealed increasing demand for exclusive ingredients in food.

The more exclusive ingredients in the dish, the more support it gets from foodies. Of course, that is the reason restaurants highlight those ingredients in the menu. They add to the quality of the food even as they give the guest a sense of royalty.

I have yet to see anyone highlight salt as an ingredient though it is one of the most essential components of food. But salt is not exclusive. So what is "exclusive" when we talk of food ingredients? Is it the price tag? Availability? Perception? Or is it simply the extraordinary quality of the ingredient that puts it in an exclusive category? Well, it is a combination of all these.

Very exclusive

Such is the case with saffron too. A simple dish can be turned into something very desirable and mouth-watering, courtesy saffron. Take your pick: plain rice or saffron rice? Rasmalai or kesari rasmalai? Plain milk or kesari milk?

Saffron is considered so exclusive it is part of the offerings to gods in many religions. Cleopatra wrote a whole book on its cosmetic and aphrodisiac properties. In ancient Greece, it was used as a spice for its aroma, as a dye, and also for medicinal purposes. Azafran is Spanish for saffron, croci in Greek, za'fran, za'faran (zargol) in Farsi or Persian and kesarin Hindi.

Saffron is without doubt the most expensive spice in the world. Its high cost is due to the work that goes into producing and harvesting the spice. Each saffron flower produces three red stigma or strands. The flower has to be picked before or at the crack of dawn, so that the strands are not overexposed to sunlight. Once the flower is picked, the three red strands must be plucked from each flower and then dried for storage. All by hand. To produce a gram of the spice, 150 to 200 flowers must be picked.

The colour of the saffron is a strong indication of the saffron's flavour. The colour is due to the degradation or the breakdown of carotenoids such as crocin and crocetin. Saffron's aroma is determined by the release of safranal. Safranal is a yellow liquid oil, comprising up to 70 per cent of the volatile components of saffron.

Saffron grown mainly in Iran, Morocco and Turkey, features largely in Arab cuisine. In India, it is cultivated mainly in Kashmir.

Cooking with saffron requires a little preparation. When in doubt, follow the recipe. Most will suggest that the saffron strands should be dipped in water for a minimum of 20 minutes or even up to 12 hours in some cases. It is also frequently added directly to the meal while cooking, skipping the soaking process. Soaking saffron ensures the dried product will sufficiently release all its aroma. Saffron strands will continue to release their flavour and colour for up to 24 hours after the soaking or cooking process starts. Some believe that slightly less saffron is needed when it is soaked for an extended period.

Care must be taken not to add too much saffron to the meal as it will turn from a pleasant flavour to a bitter one.

Aquila saffron continues to be sought after by the most demanding gourmets worldwide. Its characteristics are the length of its strands, the high content of safranal (which gives it its special aroma), its strong colouring effect and larger bulbs.

But all the knowledge about saffron is wasted if it is not used. So here is your opportunity to use it in at least one dish:

Kesari dahi ke

meethey golgappe

Ingredients

8 atta or sooji ke golgappe

2 cups cold hung curd
1 gm saffron
Icing sugar or low calorie
powdered sugar to taste
4 tbsp fresh pomegranate
seeds
1 tbsp chopped pistachios
1 tbsp sliced almonds

Method

Take the curd (hung for 24 hours) and mix in the sugar, making sure not to over-beat it but just mix to a smooth texture. Take one tablespoon water and soak in the saffron for 20 minutes and then pass it through a fine mesh, ensuring that all saffron is passed through, resulting in the thick smooth paste.

Mix it with the curd and fill it in a piping bag, refrigerate for an hour.

Take golgappas and make a hole on top using your thumb. Half fill it with washed and water-drained fresh pomegranate seeds.

Top each golgappa with the curd through piping bag in a decorative way.

Top each golgappa with sliced almond and chopped pista. Serve cold immediately.

RAKESH KUMAR

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