Features: Magazine | Literary Review | Life | Metro Plus | Open Page | Education Plus | Book Review | Business | SciTech | Friday Review | Young World | Property Plus | Quest | Folio |

In the shadow of the big spire

Salisbury is a town steeped in history, but it's equally strong on contemporary comforts and attractions

BEST-KNOWN LANDMARK The Salisbury Cathedral pierces the skyline with such majesty

There's no rule that every town must have a landmark, but having one surely helps.

We had driven in on a morning of soft sunshine and what could be called hustle and bustle by local standards. The weather had driven people outdoors, shopping, milling around, tucking into ice-cream and coffee. Having found a parking slot near the main street, it was a matter of minutes before we were in the thick of things. The crowd moved in two distinct directions. While locals thronged the boutiques and cafes, tourists like us headed in one direction, and one direction only. Everyone headed for the spire that pierced the skyline with such majesty.

Nestling in the shadow of its famous cathedral, Salisbury is a town steeped in history, but equally strong on contemporary comforts and attractions. Ask the tourists. Five minutes walk through the high street, past fancy shop windows, and we entered the cathedral's massive grounds through a small gate.

Towering over all

The cathedral is what the town's all about. Considered the finest Gothic Norman cathedral in Britain, with the highest spire (123 m), the well preserved Magna Carta (1215), a unique 13th Century frieze of Bible stories (Chapter House), the largest cloisters and close in Britain, and Europe's oldest working clock (1386). Boy and girl choristers sing daily services, continuing a tradition of worship of over 775 years.

We filed in, and past row upon row of benches where the faithful came to pray, and ruminate, or just be by themselves. Silent, large and softly lit, the main hall was inviting in a strange sort of way. One goes right up to the pulpit and then turns around to see some of the embellishments of the vast interior.

The cathedral is open every day. There are tower tours on most days. There is a shop and restaurant on the premises.

For a good initiation, visit the Medieval Hall which features Discover Salisbury, a 40-minute big screen presentation of the town's history and attractions. With the aid of hundreds of images, soundtrack, and lighting effects, one can trace the origins of the town and mark the sites to be visited. The daily presentation can be seen anytime from 11 a.m.

Not following a fixed tour has its advantages as one can do whatever one wants and go wherever one wants. Though the cathedral outstrips other attractions, there there is a lot else to see.

And a good place to start is the Salisbury & South Wiltshire Museum. Winner of many awards, the museum holds collections of national significance, including those related to Stonehenge, early human history and the Pitt River collections. There are special exhibitions year round. The museum is open Monday to Saturday, and has a gift shop and coffee shop.

It could well be a nobleman's house you're visiting for dinner. But Mompesson House, `The House in the Close', is a little more than that. A National Trust property and a perfect example of Queen Anne architecture dating from 1701, it contains an important collection of 18th Century drinking glasses and fine period furniture. The premises also feature a tranquil walled garden with garden tearoom.

The Wardrobe is situated in Cathedral Close and dates from 1254. It now houses the Salisbury Museum of the Royal Gloucestershire, Berkshire and Wiltshire Regiment, and is a real treasure house for military buffs. Landscaped gardens greatly enhance the appeal of this unique museum.

You step back a thousand years in Old Sarum Castle, a site worth visiting, if only to get a sense of history. The massive Iron Age hill fort of Old Sarum was used by the Romans, the Saxons and the Normans before becoming one of the most flourishing settlements in medieval England. Today, this dramatic site contains the ruins of a castle, cathedral and the Bishop's Palace.

The town isn't exactly at small but can be comfortably toured on foot. Allow yourself a couple of hours of walking and you can take in most of the famous sights. And some good shopping.

Look out for the Salisbury City Ambassadors who will help you get around and about.

Salisbury is a convenient jump-off point for seeing several places of interest. You can do comfortable short trips and cover places like Wilton, Stonehenge, Amesbury, Warminster, Westbury and Shaftsbury in a single day.

As we drove out of town in the evening, the road enveloped in the shadows of giant oaks and willows, the buildings faded out of sight behind us. But 10 minutes and 10 miles out of town, one could still see the spire of the cathedral standing like a silent sentinel over everything around it, the way it has done for eight centuries. It was one last reminder of Salisbury's most famous structure, simple but telling enough...

Fact file

Salisbury is a couple of hours drive from London. There are coach tours, or one can rent a car and drive there through pretty countryside.

City accommodation comes in the form of several hotels and guesthouses. Room tariffs range from £40 to £70.

Eating matters are well sorted out, thanks to dozens of little restaurants in the downtown area, offering everything from conventional Continental food to Indian and Chinese. A meal for two in a standard eatery would cost around £20 to £30.

A guide map of the town is handy and one can walk around and see all the sights. It takes half a day to cover the most notable landmarks.

INDER RAJ AHLUWALIA

Printer friendly page  
Send this article to Friends by E-Mail