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Straight from the `haandi'

Yet another eatery beckons with biryani treat

PHOTO: D. GOPALAKRISHNA

FOODIES' DELIGHT Guests check out what the restaurant has to offer

Haandi is the trendy new 46-seater, multi-cuisine diner on Road no 7, Banjara Hills. What marks out the restaurant is its garden section with its wrought iron furniture, views of the traffic flowing outside and the forbidding walls of the Iranian Consulate. On the ground floor and mezzanine the furniture changes to a minimalistic steel, vinyl and wood feel communicating something about the restaurant's come-eat-go-in-a-jiffy message. To match the mood, the service is quick and efficient.

Right at the entrance is the handi with flat bottom and tapering neck and a wide brimmed mouth, which gives the dum biryani its delicate multi-layered flavouring. After this promising beginning, the menu comes as an anti-climax. Packed into the menu are all the foodstuffs, most Hyderabadis prefer eating when they dine out. The same bunch of soups, starters, main dishes make it the menu, leaving little choice for experimentation.

But why experiment when you can stuff yourself to the gills with biryani? And anyway, a restaurant that is called Haandi better serve good biryani. No? There it comes, as a few neighbours tackle their steaming and crackling sizzler with a knife and fork, the biryani is brought in steaming with sliced eggs covering it. The long-grained rice is delicately flavoured but the meat covered with gravy seems to be warmer than the rice.

Microwaved biryani? We never know. What is certain is that it can pass off for a really good biryani. Then there is butter babycorn masala. A spicy, sweetish gravy with dollops of butter hiding a clutch of chopped babycorns. Dig in and you cannot tuck in your shirt.

SERISH NANISETTI

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