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Hide gets sleeker

They belong to two different worlds. But Hidesign's Dilip Kapur and Milan-based Alberto Ciaschini strike a harmonious note when it comes to design. T. KRITHIKA REDDY on the Indo-Italian rendezvous

Model displays a Hidesign's Fall creation

It's a cocktail of contrasts. Western simplicity and Eastern intricacy. Understated look and notice-me-now glamour. Italian luxury and Indian practicality. Continuity and change.

When bag-biggie Dilip Kapur, president of Hidesign, hired Milan-based Alberto Ciaschini four seasons ago, he was sure the former stylist-designer for Giorgio Armani, Loewe and Padla Frani, would lift Hidesign as a luxury label in the global market. "Hidesign had reached a level which was upmarket — but certainly not luxury. The advantage of working with a top-end European designer was this element of luxury that he brought with him. As the brand beckoned the international market, we needed such inputs to position us in the couture class. Few designers in the world have a sensibility towards luxury — which essentially comes out of simplicity," says Dilip.

EAST-WEST SYNERGY Dilip Kapur with Alberto PHOTO: R. SINGARAVELOU

Lounging with Dilip in his elegant Le Dupleix in Pondicherry is the true azzurri Alberto, who swears by all things Italian — from fashion to food — barring of course, craftsmanship. In fact, it was his passion for the intricacies of craftsmanship that made him turn to an Indian brand. "Indian crafts traditions are so rich. The system of working too is artisan-driven. With such hand skills, it's easy to express whatever design one conceives," says the stylish designer.

Ubersexual is perhaps the word that describes Alberto best. Throughout the conversation, you can sense the mark of a designer who has hit such a confident stride. "An original Louis Vuitton can be told from a distance for its luxury identity. That's my aim for Hidesign too. Luxury smacks of individuality. And it's ironically a mix of simplicity and detail. Creating a bag is like preparing a dish. It's about proportions — one has to use the right amount of ingredients."

The designs Alberto has conjured up for Hidesign's Fall line to be unveiled in September, is seemingly simple. But as you open the bags, you discover the finer aspect of design — which lies in the detail. Unusual compartments, non-standard stitches, puffed-up handle attachments, quirky zips and portions that can be totally unzipped. "To a woman, the bag is her world. In the frenzied pace of today's life, we don't have time to change bags too often. So most of the bags I've designed are crossover types that can make it from the boardwalk to the boardrooms. Clearly, practicality has been my priority. As you can see, most of the creations serve multi-purposes," he says.

Design sensibility

And yes, form meets function in an unusual way in Alberto's works. Take the designs that echo the female form for instance. It's a pure distillation of design sensibility. But accent of styling doesn't mean compromising on practicality. The bag has close to a dozen well-planned compartments! "The leather here is so lush. When it comes to intricacies only the best hands and hides can do the trick."

Though Alberto's works are five steps forward when it comes to design, there's an element of continuity in change. That's because Hidesign's design sensibility has always remained classic (unlike its recently introduced sizzling sister "Salsa.") What's classic doesn't get dated. It only gets updated with some tweaking every season!

Talking about Indian influences, the designer says, "Indian women are extremely feminine. It's a big challenge to reflect that kind of femininity in the bags. The colours of this country fascinate me. They are so vibrant. I wish to incorporate the sari in my designs in some way - perhaps at least in the lining! So when you open the bag, there's a surprise element."

But with fashion breaking boundaries, Dilip is not looking at too much of an ethnic influence. "To Hidesign, India is A market and AN influence. We have to think beyond.

With launches in China and Hong Kong (airport), besides additional ones in the West, we are clear about where we want to be positioned - luxury, not ethnic."

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