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Windswept

A reminder of Tipu's prowess lies in ruins, writes Subha J Rao

Two temples where the idols have been carved out of a hillock and a wind-swept fort nearby that you can reach after clambering up 600 steps.

That's nothing, after all one is a pro who has lived through leech-infested RLTs and bear, bison and tiger trails.

The euphoria is short-lived. Tipu Sultan (also referred to as the Tiger) built the fort at Nammakal. Memories of two previous unsuccessful attempts to scale Tipu Sultan's forts at Sankaridroog and Droog have left not so pleasant memories of the great warrior.

His forts are beauties all right, but walking to them is another issue altogether. Still, this one looks innocuous enough, with the first few steps being a breeze. And as they say, I might be third time lucky. That thought keeps us going.

Then, the wind blows a little stronger and the rock-hewn steps become a little more slippery. The wind soon turns into a steady howling presence whose only sinister mission seems to dislodge us from the rocks. This, despite clinging on to the iron railings installed recently.

Some scary moments

The gusty winds are because this fort falls in the path of a wind duct, with no barrier whatsoever to reduce its intensity. All one can do is to concentrate on the next step and carry on. Braving the dusty breeze, I unscrew my eyes and see part of a still-intact outer wall of the fort. And, at a distance is a glistening water body with a mandapam on it. I see that and my cap flying off merrily and settling down near the pond.

By now, the three of us making the climb look like we have had a bad hair day. A small railing-less stretch comes up giving us some scary moments.

I sit on the rocks and inch up till the railing puts in its appearance again. A little later, the fort appears within touching distance.

"I've done it," I whoop with delight and before I know it, I have reached the most exacting part of the climb. The wind tries a little harder to prise you off and it is with relief you scamper on top with whatever little dignity you can muster to the safe confines of the fort.

The contrast is a balm. It is absolutely still here. A lion, slightly weather-beaten, guards the entrance to the Tiger's den.

The fort, under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India, is in ruins and anti-social elements use it for their nefarious activities. It is sad to think that the fort once was home to Tipu's fearless generals who worked out strategies to keep the British at bay.

Ruined splendour

A half-fallen hall, shards of bricks and a temple that has not seen too many devotees make up the rest of the fort. The outside of the armoury is still in good shape, though.

But, with no kind of security near the monuments, one wonders how long it will stay that way.

The compound wall, which is surprisingly in good shape, is a work of art.

Rock solid, it has withstood decades of abrasive wind and human indifference.

Of course, people over the years have thought nothing of penning their love stories on the fort walls.

And plastic and litter float on a moss-ridden pond within the fort.

Difficult as it may be one has to ignore the filth and focus on the view — an unending chain of hills, greenery and houses arranged in neat lines.

Sit back for a minute and allow the wind to run riot through your hair and on your face. It is truly invigorating.

The hill is flanked by rock-cut cave temples of Narasimhaswamy and Ranganathasamy respectively.

The famous Namakkal Anjaneyar temple is also close by. A suggestion: it would be nice if authorised guides were available near the fort.

Namakkal is 50 km from Salem and 65 km from Erode.

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