The gusty winds are because this fort falls in the path of a wind duct, with no barrier whatsoever to reduce its intensity. All one can do is to concentrate on the next step and carry on. Braving the dusty breeze, I unscrew my eyes and see part of a still-intact outer wall of the fort. And, at a distance is a glistening water body with a mandapam on it. I see that and my cap flying off merrily and settling down near the pond.
By now, the three of us making the climb look like we have had a bad hair day. A small railing-less stretch comes up giving us some scary moments. I sit on the rocks and inch up till the railing puts in its appearance again. A little later, the fort appears within touching distance. "I've done it," I whoop with delight and before I know it, I have reached the most exacting part of the climb. The wind tries a little harder to prise you off and it is with relief you scamper on top with whatever little dignity you can muster to the safe confines of the fort.
The contrast is a balm. It is absolutely still here. A lion, slightly weather-beaten, guards the entrance to the Tiger's den. The fort, under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India, is in ruins, and antisocial elements use it for their nefarious activities. It is sad to think that the fort once was home to Tipu's fearless generals who worked out strategies to keep the British at bay.
A half-fallen hall, shards of bricks and a temple that has not seen too many devotees make up the rest of the fort. The outside of the armoury is still in good shape, though.
But, with no kind of security near the monuments, one wonders how long it will stay that way.
The compound wall, which is surprisingly in good shape, is a work of art. Rock solid, it has withstood decades of abrasive wind and human indifference. Of course, people over the years have thought nothing of penning their love stories on the fort walls. And plastic and litter float on a moss-ridden pond within the fort.
Difficult as it may be one has to ignore the filth and focus on the view — an unending chain of hills, greenery and houses arranged in neat lines.
Sit back for a minute and allow the wind to run riot through your hair and on your face. It is truly invigorating.
The hill is flanked by rock-cut cave temples of Narasimhaswamy and Ranganathasamy respectively. The famous Namakkal Anjaneyar temple is also close by.
A suggestion: it would be so nice if authorised guides were available near the fort.
Namakkal is 50 km from Salem and 65 km from Erode..
(The author is a Chennaibased obstetrician and gynaecologist with a special interest in women's health issues)
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