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Valley of serendipity
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Our iterant writer is really lucky not to miss out on the visual feast of the Sangla valley
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"The beauty if Sangla surpasses that of any valley in all the Himalayas," or, "The Sangla valley is by far the most beautiful in these grand mountains"
Over a hundred years separate these sentences, a hundred years in which the Himalayas have seen drastic changes by way of commercialisation and road building, but all these changes notwithstanding, the Sangla valley still continues to exude beauty and charm that has no comparison. No wonder then that it has left a lasting impression on the people who've travelled to it.
The first time I heard about the Sangla valley was over a glass of Kinnauri grape liqueur and from a gentleman who'd spent over ten years in Kinnaur and Spiti. When I'd told him that on my drive to Kinnaur and Spiti, I was planning to skip Sangla and head straight for Tabo, he'd benevolently smiled and asked me if I had any regrets in life. None really, I'd told him. "If you don't visit Sangla you'll soon have a big one," he replied.
And by all the Gods who reside in the Himalayas he was right! Nestled between the Dauladhar range and the Tibetan plateau, the Sangla valley is a plethora of colour and sheer, unadulterated picture postcard scenery. Besides a gushing river and snow-capped peaks, the flora is what lends to its palette of shades. If your computer monitor uses 16 million colours thanks to modern technology, the Sangla valley knew all these colours long before, and continues to blend them to perfection.
The Sangla Valley starts at Karchham, about 220 km from Shimla on the HT (Hindustan-Tibet) road. Starting high up in the Tibetan plateau, the Baspa river runs for 70 km through the valley and joins up with the Sutlej that flows along the HT road. Driving up from Karchham to Sangla, the guy behind the wheel is the most unfortunate chap. He's got to keep his eyes on the road because they are narrow and barriers non-existent. As the road snakes up on the left bank of the Baspa, the visual delight of Sangla unfolds slowly. Huge glacial scars on the mountains show the traverse of huge blocks of ice to the river meandering in the valley below. Fields of yellow dance in the wind and form a picturesque jigsaw with the general green of the valley.
By far the best place to stay is at the Banjara Camps near the Batseri village, 9 km from Sangla. Set in a meadow beautifully manicured with white and yellow wildflowers besides the roaring river, you get tented accommodation with attached bathrooms and running water here.
An interesting day excursion to Chitkul village, a further 20 km from the campsite is mandated. This village, lying at the end of the motorable road, is the terminating point for treks from Uttaranchal, across the 5,450 metre high Barasu Pass. These treks, though strenuous and requiring equipment like ropes and snow axes, are some of the most rewarding journeys by way of scenic beauty in all the Himalayas.
If you love the Himalayas like I do, pack your bags and your sense of adventure and lose yourself in the wonder that are Kinnaur and Spiti. This is a land the Gods truly call their own.
Banjara Camps offer a complete package around Kinnaur and Spiti by way of Jeep Safari. They can be contacted at banjara@vsnl.com or on 09810040397/Mr Rajesh Oja.
RISHAD SAAM MEHTA
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