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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

History on the rocks

Where you can stumble upon the past, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

WHERE BEAUTY REIGNS SUPREME The Kottukkal rock cut temple

The Kottukkal rock cut temple stands like one big black beauty spot in the middle of endless acres of lush green fields. As if literally to save the scenic landscape from any evil eye. I branch off from the Madurai-Kollam NH 7 on to the Thiruvananthapuram-Kottayam road. After crossing Ayur, which is famous for Ayurvedic and herbal medicines and oil, I stop several times asking for directions.

Manoeuvring my car steering a couple of times more to right and left, I finally spot the blue board of the Archaeological Survey of India standing erect at the beginning of a narrow pathway that breaks off from the main road. From this point, the cave can be reached via a dusty, winding pathway. Though the track is motorable, it is better to walk the distance if you want to enjoy the landscape. Less than a km later, the huge black rock stumble out from behind coconut and banana groves. Nestling in the lap of a thick green carpet, the Kottukkal rock almost rests majestically within a neat compound. By virtue of its status as a protected monument, not only do the four walls of the compound spread over 18 cents protect the centuries-old caves but there is also a proper iron gate kept under lock and key.

Once inside the compound, you find yourself walking on a cemented floor around the big weather-beaten black rock. With the sun beating down, the walk burns my feet a wee bit.

Murals on the walls

Soon the silence of the place and the cool breeze make me forget my initial discomfort. There are five small temples cut into, if one can call it so, the front face of the huge rock. Though known as the Venkata Tevar Siva Temple, it has other deities too, including Ganesha. The inside walls of the temples contain some faded mural paintings. The rock-cut temple dating between 7th and 8th Centuries A.D. is in the middle of the village called Sankarayyram. Looking for more information, I turn to the caretaker who points to a notice board, which has a pamphlet pinned up, but in Malayalam. Next to it is a small office room where I find a woman reciting shlokas.

In broken English, she tells me that the ASI printed information is about the source and inspiration of the paintings — the architecture here is believed to be Dravidian, influenced by Pallava art. And in fact, the mural tradition here, or for that matter apparently in the whole of Kerala, is characterised by stipulations of iconography. The linear accuracy of the murals represents a latter phase in the evolution of medieval mural art. Mostly students of history and archaeology come on field trips here. Though it's a functioning temple, an evening out here is ruled out because as a protected monument, the temple follows ASI timings of opening and closing (9 a.m. to 6 p.m.). What strikes you here is the cleanliness. And once done with the caves and its history and worshipping in the temple, be sure to take a stroll outside in the surrounding fields. It helps you unwind, touch base with rural India and return with a pleasant feeling.

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