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Making the cut!
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Sabyasachi Mukherjee is concentrating on the New York Fashion Week
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PHOTO: V. SUDERSHAN
REWARDED Sabyasachi Mukherjee
After having won all the major awards in most categories, finally, Sanjay Leela Bansali's magnum opus, Black has also won the best costume designer award at the just-concluded Bollywood Awards in New York. Not the ultimate recognition in the field, still the film's costume designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee is ecstatic.
"I was waiting for long, but I didn't even get many nominations in India." He reasons, "A lady told me in New York that we never noticed what the characters are wearing. I think it is the ultimate compliment. I believe costumes are meant to blend with the character. But in Bollywood everything has to be larger than life. Perhaps that was the reason nobody noticed my work." He was also awarded the Designer of the Year award at the event. This, he says, proves people are receptive to change. "This reflects in the fashion world too. Gone are the days when people wanted to look like sore thumbs in the crowd. That `era of shock' is over. These are times of decorative simplicity."
Come September and Sabya would fly again to New York to participate in the New York Fashion Week. "The collection is inspired by Russian circus, the paintings of Frida Kahlo, and the works of Leonardo Cohen." Won't it be too much for New York, known for its black and white ways?
"The idea is not to mould yourself according to what they want. They have Donna Karans to take care of that. The plan is to give them something unexpected. They expect colour and embellishments from India... I am trying to strike a balance between the two extremes."
The definitive element, says Sabya, is introducing masculine elements in feminine outfits. "The emphasis is on oversized structures making the outfits wearable.There is European influence in the collection as well."As for Bollywood, Sabya reveals he is designing for Rani Mukherjee in Babul "I am looking forward to a historical; otherwise Bollywood is not worth my time."
ANUJ KUMAR
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