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A hillock less conquered

An attractive option for those who love adventure, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

STEEPED IN LEGEND Jatayupara.

While returning to Madurai from the Kottukkal rock-cut cave temple in Kollam district recently, via the Thiruvananthapuram-Kottayam Main Central Road, a huge, rocky hill, away from the main road, caught my attention. I could spot a small temple on the top and something told me this could turn out to be a surprise RLT.

On enquiry, a roadside tea seller told me I was facing Jatayupara — a huge rock that derives its name from the mythological bird Jatayu in the Ramayana.

I decided to explore the place even as the friendly tea seller dissuaded me by saying the path leading to the base of the hillock is partially motorable and the upward climb is strenuous. What's more, the sun was beating down mercilessly.

Nervous start

Without heeding him, I geared myself to traverse the pebbled, dusty track off the State highway. I passed by groves of coconut and banana, and soon reached the base of the hillock, which is surrounded by thorny bushes. A trifle intimidating, as I was at a loss as to how and where to begin my climb. Walking around, I spotted small steps cut into the rock. People must be taking these steps to the temple atop, I told myself and embarked on the ascent.

What appeared to be easy initially gradually turned out to be difficult. There is only one advice — concentrate. Do not shift your focus to anything but your steps. Don't make the mistake of turning back. I started counting the number of steps not knowing how far they would take me. But somewhere after 103, I lost count mainly out of fear. As I proceeded higher, I could feel a strong wind blowing. I moved on carefully and slowly, almost crawling over the surface like a spiderwoman. I wondered how the locals were able to visit the temple so often. Thankfully, the rocky steps did not disappear and I didn't have to abandon my trip. Instead, it took nearly two hours to inch up to the flattened top of the hillock.

The first thing I did was to take a break. It was breezy and an ideal spot to sit and enjoy the view. The valley looked beautiful with shades of green all around. One side looked like a dense forest and I could see three rivers flowing.

The legend

Legend has it that Jatayu fell on this rock while fighting Ravana when he was taking away Sita. Going by it, the hillock must have been standing here for centuries, but the local gram panchayat built a temple fairly recently, some three decades ago. The Jatayu temple is visible from below as a tiny speck. Adjacent to it is a small triangular beak-shaped pond. It is supposed to be perennial, though it looks filled with muddy, stagnant water. The story goes that when Jatayu fell, his beak hit the rock, forming a crater from which water sprang. Jatayupara is believed to be the place where Lord Rama first learnt about Sita's whereabouts and Lakshmana found some of her jewels. It is also said that Rama fed an injured Jatayu with the water from this same pond before the bird could narrate the happenings. Till two years ago, the place was heavily infested with monkeys and that kept a lot of visitors away. But Jatayupara is definitely an attractive option for those who love adventure. In fact, the local administration is keen on converting and promoting the area as a major tourist centre.

An annual crafts mela is held each winter and local villagers gather at the temple on festive occasions. Daily rituals, however, are not conducted at the temple.

The administration wants to develop and popularise Jatayupara for cliff climbing and hand gliding. It is perhaps a matter of time. Till then Jatayupara is like a hillock less conquered.

How to reach: Jatayupara is in Chadayamangalam gram panchayat in Kollam district.

It falls on the State Highway between Thiruvananthapuram and Kottayam Main Central Road. It is about 30 km from Kollam, 55 km from Thiruvananthapuram and 260 km from Madurai.

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