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From the island of serendipity
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It's just not the cuisine of Sri Lanka that Chef Publis has brought along, but also its warmth and hospitality, writes ANIMA BALAKRISHNAN
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PHOTO M. PERIASAMY
SRI LANKA REVISITED At The Residency
Three summery men croon praises to a dusky village belle. The congo beats, guitar tunes and accordion fill in. They move onto a fisherman in love and then the popular anthem — Surangani follows. The usually clipped and sedate diners call out for more and before long every table at The Pavilion is being serenaded.
Rustic charm
At times Baila tunes, Sri Lankan melodies a moment later, a smattering of Latin American rhythms and the mood is festive.
A group of fun-loving fisher folk lolling on the beach and wooing their women is not hard to picture now.
Colourful waiters in straw hats and summer shirts and drapes of red and brown add a splash of colour to the otherwise sedate interiors.
Delicate Disna welcomes you in the singsong, leisurely way only an islander can and chef Publis benignly hovers over as you eat — The Residency is being swept away by Lankan warmth.
To round off the festivities is the food — aubergine salad and chicken soup, crab in drumstick leaves and kotthu roti, dhal theldala and red rice, wattalappam and kalu dhol dhol.
The Sri Lankan Food Festival is on at the hotel till September 10 and the music, hospitality and cuisine is all yours till then.
The Residency has gone international and the festival is being conducted along with Mount Lavinia Hotel in Sri Lanka.
Chef par excellence
The USP here is the grand old man of Lankan cooking — Master Chef Publis. "Our cooking is all about balance," says Chef Publis genially. You start on the spread and you will know why. The spice is never too much to handle, but never too little either.
To start off there was the not-so-Lankan Mutton biriyani and the quintessential lemon rice of the island. The rice was incredibly soft and cooked just right.
With seafood being the way of life, there is plenty to choose from for the non-vegetarians.
Sizzling seafood
But the pick of the lot was the devilled prawns by a long shot — giant prawns are deep-fried with a smattering of chilli and are crispy and rich. "Generally, our cooking is not too spicy. But the prawns are a little hot, it's "devilled"," quips the chef.
To temper the chilli, try the mushroom isharam. Mushrooms are cooked in a tomato base with just a dash of chilli and they are tender and fresh. The vegetarians can go in for the Cadju curry — cashew nuts boiled to the right degree and soaked in a gravy of coconut milk.
As I work my way through rice, fried okra and chicken curry, Chef Publis comes over to find out if I have tried the sambol. He looks aghast when I reply in the negative and goes to get some.
Chef Publis' love of cooking is evident in the way he serves, the indulgence with which he places a spoonful of katta sambol is proof enough. He waits with patient anticipation as I have my first mouthful of what looks like a cousin of the Kerala chamanti (chutney). "Coconut?," I ask. "No way," is the Chef's answer. He wants me to give it another try, but I give up. "It's dry tuna fish crushed and mixed with fried onions and chilli," he explains. Try this with the plain appa (appam).
The veg kothu roti is also worth a try. Soft pieces of roti are sautéed with golden brown onion and cooked carrots and garnished with a generous spread of curry leaves.
A sweet finale
The dessert fare includes typical delicacies of the island — Wattalappam and Kalu dhol dhol. So, if it is egg hopper, chicken curry or red rice you crave for dinner, walk into The Residency on weekdays. The Sri Lankan menu would be served for lunch on weekends. The buffet is priced at Rs. 450 for an adult and Rs. 250 for a child. After a full meal if you wonder if it is the ambience or the food that you flipped for, well, it's a tough call.
To serve with love
He started off grating 80 coconuts and cleaning 40 kilos of rice a day. Fifty years on he declares, "Cooking, Publis and Hotel Lavinia are all one."
T. Publis, Director Culinary Affairs and Promotion or simply the "master chef" of Mount Lavinia Hotel in Sri Lanka, was in town for a festival of Sri Lankan food at The Residency.
For the 70-year-old who has spent a lifetime working culinary magic, cooking comes from the heart. Into his 50th year at the same hotel, Publis still troops to work with the enthusiasm of the 20-year-old youngster who was first assigned the task of collecting charcoal.
"I am at the hotel at six in the morning and remain there till eight in the evening," he says. Teaching lessons, television appearances and culinary tips to journals take up the chef's day.
For him, every day is a learning experience. "Yesterday, I learnt to make rumali roti from the chef here," Publis beams. His formal education never went beyond Class IV, yet he has spread the flavours of the island all over the world. Be it serving katta sambol to the former US President George Bush Sr or creating banquets for Sri Lankan Presidents — he has done it all.
Publis claims to have introduced over 90 recipes to Lanka's culinary repertoire.
"I realised there was no system in place when it came to cooking," he explains. Asian cuisine has immense possibilities, believes the chef.
"We use ingredients that have great medicinal value like cardamom, cinnamon and ginger. What is missing is the right balance," he says.
The man who prepares feasts for others likes to keep it simple when it comes to himself.
"Though I love prawns and crabs, the doctors do not agree," he quips.
Publis never refers to recipe books, "Whenever I have a doubt I ask my wife," he concludes.
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