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Waves of history

Where the past and the present merge seamlessly

LOST IN TIME An ever-changing sea and backwaters blend with the history of Anchuthengu PHOTO: S. BINU RAJ

Anchuthengu is a mix of our colonial past and a rustic coastal life. The sheer beauty of an ever-changing sea and backwaters blend with history at Anchuthengu. The vibrant life of fisher folk adds charm to this coastal hamlet.

Anchuthengu satisfies a historian and a lover of coastal beauty alike. It was the brownish red and white-striped lighthouse that caught my fancy when I reached Anchuthengu. As the sign outside showed it was open to the public, I climbed the spiral stairway. I was panting by the time I reached the top. Climbing the 199 steps was taxing and a test of fitness. However, the cool sea breeze and the sight beyond invigorated me. In the east, the serene Anchuthengu Lake reflected the emerald hue around.

I felt on top of the world. In the distance I glimpsed a catamaran returning, perhaps, after a good catch; a canoe moving towards the coast tossed by the waves...

The panorama never ends but time is limited as I leave the lighthouse.

I drive south to reach the pozhi, a place where the backwaters meet the sea. The road ends there. A football match between two local clubs was going. The crowd was on tenterhooks as this was the final match of the tournament. "Football is a favourite pass time here," says a vendor.

A history lesson

As the fort at Anchuthengu has its names in the annals of the history of Travancore, I made it a point to visit it. According to historians, the fort is considered to be the first European establishment in erstwhile Travancore. The English East India Company had their warehouse here till 1813.

The fort has been renovated. The renovators deserve praise as they have tried their best to preserve its antiquity. The watchtower and the tunnel have been retained. The massive rectangular fort has a semi-circular tunnel on the eastern side and it is believed to be a secret passage to the sea.

Anchuthengu, which is referred to as Anjengo in the colonial period, has charming churches like the Mambally church and the Anchuthengu church. Many Englishmen have been buried here and their tombs stand as testimony to a colonial past. British Historian Robert Ohm was born here.

Although near the famous holiday destination Varkala and Papanasam beach, Anchuthengu is certainly not for fun lovers and tan seekers. Located between the backwaters and Arabian Sea, Anchuthengu is the hub of activity for toilers of the sea and labourers in the coir industry, an ideal place to feel the pulse of their life.

Palli Perunnal or the church festival adds colour to Anchuthengu and there is revelry during Christmas. With no accommodation available and as the streets are poorly lit, I decide to head home. On my way back I see that the light on the lighthouse has started revolving and that the football match is over.

The victorious team and its supporters were returning in a procession as the church bells rang.

How to get there

Anchuthengu is 34 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram.

If you are on a train, alight at Chirayinkeezhu, which is six kilometres from Anchuthengu or get down at Varkala and drive eight kilometres to reach Anchuthengu.

The lighthouse is open to the public from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. There is a nominal entrance fee. The fort will is closed at 5 p.m.

S. BINU RAJ

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