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A spectacle beyond narration
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Surmounting a summit requires grit and gumption, finds out SONITA KATARIA on her way to Adi Kailash
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PHOTO: HEMANT KATARIA
IRRESISTIBLE! A panoramic view of Adi Kailash.
The Other Haven of Shiva
Hill after hill was climbed and now...
Behold, the last tremendous brow...
And the great rock that none has trod...
A step, and now is all and God...
- Sri Aurobindo
It was a dream coming true when I accomplished an arduous journey to Adi Kailash despite chronic backache and dwindling stamina. After all, I had crossed many valleys traversing 160 kms to reach Adi Kailash. It is a replica of holy Kailash and Mansarovar Lake in China.
Trail to Adi Kailash branches off at Gunji following the course of Kuti river along the Tibet border. Till Gunji river, Kali forms a natural border with Nepal. Up till Budi en-route Malpa, I encountered huge waterfalls and wind swaying the tiny droplets to a melody. It was not possible to cross over without getting drenched. There was fear of losing grip on the boulders that had smoothened over time through wear. Intermittently, signboards warned us to watch out for falling stones.
At Malpa heaps of boulders were reminiscent of the devastation in 1998, razing an entire village. A statue of Lord Shiva, enshrined in the memory of those who lost their lives, boosts rhythms of life and "Om Namah Shivai" was the greeting exchanged on this route.
Trek to Chhiyalekh Pass (3320m) is a steep one for next three kms but is promising with rhododendrons and wild roses. The terrace fields were blooming with red hue of a local pulse, keeping mind off the steep climb. As one reaches atop Pass, the enchanting view of Annapurna Range in Nepal unfolded and meadows laden with multi-hued flowers took away the fatigue.
After ITBP verified our permits, a prerequisite for entering inner line border areas, we descended towards Garbyang village.
This sleepy village has been a mute spectator of nature's fury. Houses existing at three levels were actually situated at the same level but due to sinking ground these were leaning like Tower of Pisa and had been deserted for the fear of imminent collapse. By evening we reached Gunji, situated at the confluence of river Kuti and Kali merging from right side. The latter originates from Kailash Mansarovar in China while Kuti river commences from Adi Kailash.
Mountains were a bare skeleton and devoid of any vegetation cover. We had to cope up with the lack of oxygen. A pathway dotted with white and green painted bricks and signboard "Doorway to Adi Kailash" would herald into Kuti village, which is named after Kunti. Houses were made of huge stone blocks and seemingly decked up in a brightly textured landscape. Each house hoisted colourful strips on dried up deodar tree to ward off evil spirits.
Simmering spirits
Chilly winds could not freeze our simmering spirits and we left early at 6 a.m. towards Jolingkong, (4572 m). Words of ITBP personnel "Mithi Mithi chadai" proved true as climb was killing stamina. A message on a rock had read our minds and aptly whispered, "Bas thoda aur". At first glimpse of the Adi Kailash we bore all pains and we made it to the Jolingkong.
Adi Kailash was at its best, beyond narration. White snow clad peak was soaked in crimson hue of newly born sun. Its image in calm waters of Parbati Sarovar was like a mirage that soon mingled with the ripples.
It took an hour to do the three-kilometre parikrama around the lake.
River Kuti, whose course we had been following, is born from Parbati Sarovar. It seemed that we had walked along a vein to reach the heart. These words echoed in my mind...
The mountain said to the man...
see my height!
The man said to the mountain...
see my determination and resolve...
and the mountain vanished."
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