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Ode to the sun in stone

NANDINI NAIR takes a look at a fine architectural example on the outskirts of Ahmedabad

PEERLESS The sun temple at Modhera on the banks of the Pushpawati river is a marvelous example of architecture from the Solanki dynasty

The Sun Temple at Modhera stuns with its beauty and impresses with its fortitude. Around 100 kms from Ahmedabad it is similar to the sun temples in Martand (Kashmir) and Konark (Orissa). Built on the banks of the Pushpawati river, it was built during the reign of King Bhimdev (1022-1063 A.D.) of the Solanki dynasty.

While it is easy to simply admire the intricate sandstone sculptures, the temple comes alive when Girish Ghoswami narrates its tales. He is a priest at the neighbouring temple. With the advantage of his ancestry and with the knowledge from a tourism course he is a fascinating guide.

Like the Konark temple based on the wheel this one is based on a lotus. Pointing to a small statue of Lord Ganesh and Kartik, near the base, Ghoswami says that these gods are invoked at the start of a new venture.

Science of it

He takes special pride in explaining the science of the architecture. Built on the Tropic of Cancer, the scheme of the temple is such that the sun's first rays would fall on the sun deity during the equinox. The finely carved pillared portico has 52 pillars, the number of weeks in a year. The temple has twelve parts, the number of months in a year. The magnificent step well has 108 shrines, the number of beads in a rudraksha mala. The temple is built on the interlock system, which means little mortar is used between the stones, strengthening it against earthquakes. The deity and the temple face East. The step well in front of the temple and the two chambers before the garbha griha ensure that the devotee is first cleansed and then is ready for darshan.

The exterior of the temple is carved with elaborate and explicit erotic scenes, reminiscent of Konark and Khajuraho. Depictions of gods and legends also find their place here. Sequences from the Ramayan, the Mahabharat and other legends come alive through stone.

Unusual depictions

Interesting sculptures, such as an imposing Parvati with a small Shiva beside her, show the creativity of the artisan. Ganesh is seen standing when usually he is shown in a sitting posture. There is the figure of a rishi standing empty-handed. "We come empty-handed, judge us by that," explains Ghoswami.

Another fascinating part of the temple is the Surya Kund. A 100-square metre rectangular pond, today it is devoid of water but one can still marvel at the attention to detail and the excellence in execution. Decorated with shrines to Ganesh, Sheetala, Natraja, Vishnu and Kali, it is built to facilitate the simultaneous entry of many people. The most beautiful sculpture is probably that of Vishnu reclining on a serpent. It evokes serenity and power.

Worship in the temple stopped after it was plundered by a Muslim invasion. Ghoswami says that most tourists visit during Navratri to Diwali, even as a disinterested tourist is overheard saying, "In khandaron mein kya hai?"

This temple is a must see if you are in Gujarat.

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