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Lived life king size

"Made for Maharajahs: A Design Diary of Princely India" is more than a peek at the life our royals led. ZIYA US SALAM leafs through

RESPLENDENT Stills from the book showing Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda

In hasraton se keh do, kahin aur ja basein
Itni jagah kahan hai dil-e-daghdar mein
Kitna hai badnaseeb Zafar dafan ke liye
Do gaz zameen bhi na mili koo-e-yaar mein

India is a land of ironies. Has always been. If there was an "unfortunate" Bahadur Shah Zafar who could not get two yards as the last resting place in his beloved country, there have been more than a handful others; kings and queens, princes and princesses who wore riches on their sleeve. And the only reason they did not have them in the bank was probably the fact that they were the banks themselves! They were the men, and women, for whom indulgence was no sin, but a way of life. They were the maharajahs and the maharanis of yore who dressed like the British, talked like them, lived like them. If there was Nawab Sadat Ali Khan who served European delicacies prepared by a French chef, there were others who wore tiaras over their turbans. Then there was Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala who used a necklace of 118 emeralds, 800 diamonds and 43 rubies made by Cartier! Some lived like the French too. For instance, the Maharajah of Kapurthala. Now we now get a glimpse into their materially rich, culturally eclectic lives, courtesy, "Made for Maharajahs: A Design Diary of Princely India" by Amin Jaffer, a curator with the Asian Department of the Victoria and Albert Museum who specialises in Indian art and culture in the period of European influence.

Combined effort

He got ample help from young Priya Kapoor, the lady behind the scenes who researched on the photographs in places as diverse as Bikaner and London for a little under three years to put together the 30,000 words, 275-page essay with 300-odd pictures brought out by Roli Books.

Says Jaffer, "It was challenging to get the images together. I had been working passively on this book for 10 years and actively for almost three years with Roli." Kapoor, meanwhile, undertook special trips to London, Bikaner, Baroda and a number of places to put together the images.

So, what did their research yield?

A silk dress designed by Jean Paquin for Rani Molly of Pudukkottai

"Right from the time of Akbar in the 16th Century, Indians were fascinated with European luxury goods. For instance, the much-acclaimed practice of enamelling came from Europe, the technique of stone inlaying, ordinary glass blowing, gun blowing. Not just the kings and queens of the 19th and early 20th centuries, but even the courtiers wanted European mirrors, shoes, apparel and all the accessories. They would undertake long trips with a big entourage to London. They would take their cooks along because some of them still observed caste distinctions. Some even carried the Ganga waters. But I would take the trip of the princesses as a mark of women's emancipation. They were well received in Europe, and some of them like Sita Devi were better dressed than their foreign counterparts. It must have been a shock for many Europeans too to find Indian women coming out of purdah, mixing with men and moving around freely."

Chips in Kapoor, "There was no feeling of guilt among the royalty. They would hire a foreign agent, even art connoisseurs to help them make the right purchase. There was awareness of foreign art, not just indulgence but appreciation. Particularly, the Bikaner and Holkar maharajahs were very aware."

Incidentally, reveals Kapoor, "Fashion comes around. So, some of the chiffon and other things women used to wear would make them look contemporary. Also, a lot of them got their stuff stitched in London. Some of the royal women were big commissioners of works of art. In fact, a maharani even ordered cigarette holders under a pseudo name."

Development work

Once these distinguished men and women were back, they used at least some of their knowledge to improve things back home. Says Jaffer, "Many of them implemented development projects. They established schools, colleges, even museums. The Baroda maharajah abolished purdah and polygamy."

But were they never hit by pangs when they saw the struggle for freedom? Admits Jaffer, "Some of them did see a contradiction between emerging polity and their culture. Many of them relinquished symbols of imperialism." They were exceptions. But then so was Zafar in another way. However, why blame the maharajahs, rich and stately, as they were? Even Mohammed Ali Jinnah's three-piece suits, dining table with matching cutlery, study and sofa, even now on display in Karachi, would match any aristocrat's. Reason enough to add a few pages to "Made for Maharajahs"?

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