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Go Goa? If your dil chahta hai

There's more to this holiday destination than beaches and churches, says SUDHISH KAMATH

DREAM DESTINATION The Taj Fort Aguada Resort (with water sports in the background)

It's the dream destination for any group of friends in this part of the world. More so, ever since Akash, Sid and Sameer drove down to Goa on a Merc to the tune of "Dil Chahta Hai". Also, the International Film Festival of India (IFFI) is a good excuse to "Go Goa".

Apparently, any time after mid-November is a good time to avail yourself of deals on everything from lodging to transport, given that the peak holiday season officially begins only in December. This year, however, the hotels got smart and replaced off-season tariff cards with the peak season ones the day IFFI got underway. Booking in advance turned out to be a good thing. If you are not from Bangalore, Mumbai or Mangalore, the most difficult part of holidaying in Goa, especially if you are on a budget trip, is getting there. It's a long way from Chennai and but for just one flight (that costs nearly Rs.5,000 one-way), there are no direct flights to the tourist destination. And, even if you do manage to shell out the money to fly down, you will still need an hour-long bumpy taxi ride and about 500 bucks before you hit the capital. There are only two trains a week and even if you do manage to reserve well in advance, the journey takes nearly 24 hours.

Getting there

What is then the best way to get there? We took the Brindavan Express out of Chennai early morning (the air-conditioned chair car ticket costs Rs.400 a head), did a leisurely lunch at Bangalore (Ebony atop the 13th Floor at Barton Centre, MG Road, had a quality executive buffet for Rs.180) and took the air-conditioned Volvo KSRTC bus to Panaji (KSRTC lets you book your ticket ten days in advance from any KSRTC booking office, the ticket only costs Rs. 674). By the time you wake up, you find yourself in Panaji.

For all practical purposes, it makes sense to stay on the other side of the Mandovi and not in the capital. Panaji has very little to offer apart from IFFI and quaint-looking buildings. Take your pick from Candolim, Calangute, Baga or Anjuna and check into budget-rooms near the beach, starting from Rs.450 per room (split the bill three ways and you can actually afford more days in Goa).

Exotic haunts

The next thing you absolutely need in Goa is a bike. There is so much to explore and taxis will really burn a hole in your wallet. Rent a bike for Rs.250 a day (share it with a friend) and you are set to discover exotic haunts, remote beaches, charming churches and night bazaars scattered all along the coast.

Fort Aguada is a good place to get started. Go atop the hill, get the mandatory "Dil Chahta Hai" snapshot taken with buddies. Go down the hill and you will find water sports. Go para-sailing, take a ride or the water scooter or just sit by the beach sipping Breezers.

The "Dil Chahta Hai" lookout point atop Fort Aguada

All along the approach road to every tourist attraction, watch out for the small colourful shops that sell birthstones, sculptures, shell-work, handicrafts, artefacts, funky bracelets and other souvenirs you can buy for friends back home.

Eat-outs and pubs

If Candolim has a street full of eat-outs, Calangute down the same road has its unique sea-side shacks that serve you candle-lit dinner on the beach, just a few feet away from the waves. A couple of kilometres away from Calangute is Baga, known for its classy pubs and colourful shacks all around. Before you hit Anjuna down the same road, you will find Club Cabana, the most happening disco atop the hill in Goa. Club Cabana largely plays hip-hop, is always crowded in spite of its multi-level floor area (one has a swimming pool, another has the bar and the one on top is the dance floor). Trance-lovers, however, prefer parties at Paradise. Anjuna is infested with hippies and if you are willing to go the extra mile (quite literally), you will find remote hippy joints along exotic beaches. Curlies is a popular hangout with the hippy crowd and is the perfect place to catch the sunset and a late evening dip in the sea. Ingo's Evening Bazaar (on Saturdays) is another crowd puller and must-do if you are looking for good bargains.

If you like the sea, you could try the Goa by night cruise on the Mandovi. There is so much to see and explore. North Goa by itself would need anything between four days to a week to explore. And, South? Well, we'll save that for another trip. For, if you want to do justice to all the churches around and lesser-known beaches scattered along the coast, you need another week and, of course, more money.

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