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The golden island

Ponnumthuruthu is a place where time stands still, says S. BINU RAJ

PHOTO: S. BINU RAJ

HIDDEN TREASURE Ponnumthuruthu is home to a rich variety of flora and fauna

Kerala's backwaters have many hidden treasures. The best way to find them is to hire a country boat and an oarsman and then set out to explore the wonders of hundreds of picturesque places. On my expedition through the backwaters of Thiruvananthapuram, I found Ponnumthuruthu, the island of gods and birds.

I roamed around the Nedunganda Lake to find a way to reach this idyllic island. A ferry service or a country boat takes travellers to Ponnumthuruthu. The walkway to the ferry itself is a thin slice of ground between land and water. As I walked along this path, I found the earth beneath my feet acting like a cushion. The local people informed me that this walkway is made up of coconut husk, mud and the waste from coir. Magnificent nature beckons.

Ponnumthuruthu in Malayalam means `golden island;' locals simply call it `thuruthi.' Glimpses of Ponnumthuruthu from the ferry is enthralling. The emerald island shimmers in the evening rays of the sun and makes a perfect contrast against the azure sky.

I stepped into a country boat along with two women, who were going to a temple on the island. As the boat approached the islet, bird song, including that of rare migratory birds, welcomed us. The `kadavu' is well protected and steps are provided to step on to terra firma. The sign board has the name of the temple as `Siva Parvati Vishnu Temple, Nedunganda.' The temple belongs to the Valiyapurackal family and it is open on all mornings and evenings.

I decide to roam around the island, which is home to a rich variety of flora and fauna. I found it a paradise for bird watchers as they can watch cormorants, egrets and herons fishing in the placid waters while eagles and gulls soar overhead.

Don't think that you can take a leisurely walk through this isle as there are no distinct walkways and thick thorny shrubs obstruct your way. But this is a blessing in disguise for this green patch and so it remains more or less untouched, making it a perfect destination for nature lovers.

The presence of Acacia trees on the island is an eyesore. Holding on to the branches of trees that border the island, I explored the banks of Ponnumthuruthu. This is the best way to watch and take snaps of water birds at close quarters. But do it carefully as the marshy earth in some areas can be dangerous.

Coir village

The mainland on the other side of Ponnumthuruthu that borders the Nedunganda Lake is a coir village. Near the ferry itself there is a small coir-making unit. A pristine look envelops the ratt centre with old planks and tiled roof grimed by age. Husk laden boats and coir workers make the scene perfect.

The land here is marshy and is inundated during heavy rain. I had parked my two-wheeler near the ferry and when I returned I found that birds had created an abstract painting on the seat with their droppings! Perhaps the avian way of protesting against disturbing their free life in Ponnumthuruthu!

How to get there

Drive seven km towards south from Varkala to reach Nedunganda. Turn left from Nedunganda Junction and drive along the canal road for a km to reach Planthottam.

The road ends here. A flight of steps downwards takes you to the ferry. You can reach Varkala by rail and road. Varkala is 55 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram and 35 kilometres from Kollam.

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