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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

The magical misty trek

For an invigorating trek though mist-filled forests, says SOMA BASU

PHOTOS: SOMA BASU

ADUKKAM Full of ethreal charm.

Having trekked many a time in groups through various forests, I decide to go for it alone this time — a brief walk in the wild without the help of the forest department. My destination is Adukkam, about 15 km short of Kodaikanal.

All along the drive from the foot of the Kodai hills to Adukkam, mist threatens to spoil the trip. But it actually doesn't. Rather it lends an ethereal charm to the place.

Maybe a bit haunting. A strange coincidence occurs as at that point, one of the FM radio stations plays classics from Hindi films "Bees Saal Baad" and "Madhumati," which were shot in such a setting. I can't help but sing along and the drive feels even shorter.

Relaxed drive

With rains having drenched the area the previous night, there is a nip in the air. The mingling of the smell of wet earth and the flora is all too intoxicating. Traffic is not too heavy and it makes the drive really enjoyable and relaxing.

Adukkam can be reached in various ways. While coiling up on the ghat section, one has to turn right just before Uthuperumalmalai and the road from here takes you straight to Adukkam, a sleepy hamlet enveloped in mist this time of year.

I am told that diehard trekkers choose to walk from down below, the starting point being the Periyakulam bus stand. The trek to Adukkam is one of the 17 trekking routes identified by the Forest Department in the Palani hill ranges. It takes about 14 hours to do this 18 km stretch through thick jungle. Of course, the permission of the DFO, Kodaikanal, is required.

The second option and a shorter trek is from Shenbaganur, which is almost at the head of Adukkam. There is a story about how the Madurai Collector climbed the hills from a place called Devanadanapattinam way back in 1834. And he instantly fell in love with the place and built a bungalow here. From this spot, you need to turn right towards Korappur and the walk to the Adukkam forests takes about three hours. The best time to walk is between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m.

I did not choose either options but instead, drove straight to Adukkam and then veered off into the "green house."

Besides wooded slopes and tall trees, rocks and grasslands and long stretches of forest, I realise that the charm of Adukkam lies in its misty covering. The mist almost works as a soundproof wall, for the silence around is deafening. The narrow tar road, that curves, criss-crosses, undulates up and down and becomes narrower, is a sight to behold.

The traffic-free road is dotted with pine and wattle trees, hill banana and eucalyptus trees.

I stick to the gentle slope on my right. The path zigzags and I find my way through orchards of mango, guava, sapota, pears, plums and amla. In the foreground are green farms and I can spot a handful of labourers noiselessly working there. Slowly, the farms give way to tall forest trees, some prickly shrubs and geranium plantation. You can collect samples of a variety of plants on your way.

Just before the reserve forest beings, there is a beautiful shola dominated by large white and pink orchids. While walking through this stretch, beware of leeches.

The climb at times becomes steep. I climb through deciduous forest to reach a small ridge. You can climb on top of this ridge to drink in a panoramic view of the valley, the adjacent coffee estates and cotton plantations. By the time I get ready with my camera, the thick fog covers the valley. So, you can get glimpses of the green slope off and on. From this ridge, there is another trekking route through the savannah forests that leads to Batlagundu, which I shall reserve for later.

As I walk on, sometimes stopping to take a closer look at some, something suddenly strikes me. I can't not see or hear a single bird or animal, though I can spot some insects.

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