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Woods, water and wings

For a walk in the wild, says W. SREELALITHA

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

DIVERSE SIGHTS A Malabar Pied hornbill

It is my first RLT. I did not sleep a wink last night. It seemed like a blind date — I did not know what to expect. I realise later I should have snored away merrily. I had laid three conditions (to myself) for my debut — the trip should have a river, a trek and an encounter with a tiger. And lady luck, I guess, not just smiled, but guffawed, for the RLT has all the three. Well, almost!

While driving down to the Kobanari Reserve Forest in the Karamadai range, K. Kalidasan, president of Osai, an NGO, involved in environment conservation, mentions the possibility of sighting hornbills.

Accompanying us is forester K. Krishnasamy.

We get off the vehicle near Athikkadavu bridge, and look down at the River Bhavani murmuring softly amid tall trees. Dazed as we are after such a serene sight, a ruffle in a tree nearby grabs our attention — the Indian giant squirrel. All crimson and black with a long, bushy tail, the squirrel can give its cousin in our balcony a run for its money! Once aware we are gaping at it, the rodent scurries off into the comfort of healthy shrubs.

Our one-and-a-half-km trek, just near the bridge, begins. On the path, less than a foot wide, we frequently see cakes of fresh and not-so-fresh dung of the gaur, ants — big and small, black or red — marching busily, flamboyant blue-green beetles, and loads of tiny insects.

An ant nest.

We plant our steps carefully. Cleverly camouflaging themselves in the greenery, the cicada chatters, the Malabar whistling thrush whistles, the crested serpent eagle cries, the hoopoe calls, and the red-vented bulbul chirps. Dry brown leaves rustle underneath, and the river, running along our path, gurgles.

Wild music

This spontaneous orchestra in the wild makes a perfect accompaniment. And just five minutes into the trek, the enchanting happens!

From atop a tree nearby, we hear an unpleasant sound like a row of boxes strung together being pulled with great effort. At once, an alert Kalidasan whispers: "Hornbill!" I cannot not see the bird, but realise it is the flutter of its wings that is causing the discord.

My heart sinks so, it almost touches my big toe. Have I come all this way just to spot this bird? But, in two seconds, as if to put me to shame for my impertinent thoughts, the rare and endangered Malabar pied hornbill takes off brilliantly.

A forest track along the River Bhavani in the Athikadavu Forest.

Gliding with peerless flamboyance, he flies across the river, and perches himself on a treetop. He flaunts his imposing casque one minute, and tosses his head like a teasing lover, the next.

After a few minutes of conceited peek-a-boo, he disappears into a particularly flourishing tree. Ananthan, our photographer, waits for it. We too linger, desperate for more — in vain.

We give up knowing this is one scene none of us will forget in a hurry.

As for me, I could not have cared if a tiger, with his lady and cubs in tow, preens endlessly in front of me for a photograph!

As we continue to walk, we see in the distance, gibbering bonnet macaques jumping into the river and swimming to the bank in reckless abandon. Elsewhere, a couple of cormorants rests on a rock after a hearty breakfast and white-breasted kingfishers wheel over the river for their meal.

Birds and the bees

Throughout the stretch, we spot at least five Indian giant squirrels.

Magpie robins, babblers, bee-eaters and flower-peckers flying about with a sense of importance become boringly common.

A giant squirrel

Towards the end of the trek, we cling to the smooth rocks and dip our feet into the cool and pristine waters of the Bhavani. On the dry grey rocks are marvellous patterns of off-white algal remnants garment designers will kill for. Resting for sometime to watch tiny frogs and hoping an elephant will stop by, we trek back to the vehicle.

As it starts, I grin happily — I couldn't have asked for a better first RLT!

How to go

Karamadai is 35 km from Coimbatore.

From there, drive down or take a bus to Athikkadavu, 30 km away.

For permission to visit, call the District Forest Office at 0422-2302925.

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